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Autox.team.net Echoes

To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net, kwaringa@dynsys.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Autox.team.net Echoes
From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 02:21:31 -0500
All,

This becomes annoying.
The message hereunder dated March 8 5:08 PM also was mailed to me on March
8th 5:38 PM!!!!!
May this echoing be stopped please?

Cheers,

Hans


-----Original Message-----
From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 5:08 PM
To: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com; kwaringa@dynsys.com; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Heater removal


MGOC has a remanufactured seal.


----- Original Message -----
From: <Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com>
To: <kwaringa@dynsys.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: RE: Heater removal


> Hi Ken,
>
> Just as I wrote you had the same story. Aint this funny!
> The thick seal if still intact can be reuesed. It is NLA.
> Mine died, while I was trying to get the darn heater out.
> Yes you must have tubes! I will not work correctly.
> The Moss catalogue shows per variant what you need.
> Maybe you can use some kitchen tubing (air vents) or try a vacuum cleaner
> work shop.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Waringa [mailto:kwaringa@dynsys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 2:40 PM
> To: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com; mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Heater removal
>
>
> The heater is out.  Thanks for all the guidance.  It seems the thick
rubber
> seal between the heater box and the body where the defroster tubes come
out
> was holding the whole thing in place.  The flap that diverts the air was
> rusted in place pretty solid, but I think I'll be able to get it loose and
> operable again.
>
> Now the questions.  My heater setup had the thick seal, but no tubes or
> elbows.  The defroster vent hoses went directly into the thick seal.  Is
> this correct?  It didn't appear that the heater box has been previously
> removed, but maybe a DPO tried to remove the vent hoses and didn't replace
> the tubes and elbows?????  Is the heater supposed to have the tubes and
> elbows and rubber seal?  If so I guess that's some more items to be added
to
> my need to buy list.  It seems the list gets longer every time I do
> something to the car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com [mailto:Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 2:24 AM
> To: kwaringa@dynsys.com; mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Heater removal
>
> Ken,
>
> Been there - did this fight.
> Have the air director cable loosened. Make this fastened again is a hard
> job, you'll need patience and small fingers - perhaps a child can help...
> All screws tightening the heater box are those you mentioned.
> What happened over the years is the foam between the heaterbox and the
> firewall has acted as glue. Take a saw (kind of making keyholes in a
wooden
> door) and saw the heaterbox loose.
> Regrattably you'll damage the paint, there is no other option.
> I had the luck to have the car resprayed after this, so it is fine now.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> '72 BGT which had a stuck heaterbox a few years ago.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Waringa [mailto:kwaringa@dynsys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:12 PM
> To: MG
> Subject: Heater removal
>
>
> How do you get the stupid heater out of a 74 B?  I read the book, but it
> still won't come out.  I removed the screw on the side holding it to the
> fire wall and the screws across the front and side of the heater box.  I
> have removed the defroster hoses.  It is loose, but won't lift out.  Does
> the air flow cable have to be removed from inside the heater box before it
> will lift out?  Something is definitely holding it from coming out, but I
> just don't know what.  Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken

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