BL handbrakes were always dodgy if not given regular and comprehensive
cleaning and lubrication. At each 3k service I completely dismantle the
shoes and the actuation levers from the backplates and cables. With the
cables off you can get plenty of free movement on the levers on the diff
casing, make sure these are free and oil the pivots. Also make sure the
cable at the handbrake end and the handbrake itself are free. If the cable
sheath has a grease nipple pump some in and work the cable back and fore to
distribute it, in any case make sure the cable is not stiff or catching in
the sheath. Check the slave pistons move back and fore and there is no
fluid inside the rubber boot. Ensure the pivot on each actuation lever is
clean and free, work a little grease in to it and wipe off any excess.
Screw the adjusters all the way in and remove, clean and grease the wedges
and adjuster screw. Replace the screw, screw it all the way out the back of
the backplate (minimum adjustment) then apply more grease to the threads
that are in the open on the back (so when you screw the adjuster back in a
ring of grease builds up protecting the threads from water ingress). Apply
a thin smear of grease to every metal to metal contact point of shoes,
actuators and backplates (you can see the rub marks). You don't want great
gobs of it that will get on the drums and friction material, just a thin
smear. Reassemble the shoes observing the correct orientation (the 'empty'
portion of each shoe on both sides is its leading edge) and spring fitment
and reconnect the cables. Screw in the adjusters until the shoes just rub
on the drums, at this point I pump the brakes and pull on the handbrake a
couple of times then strike the drums with a mallet to ensure the shoes are
centralised. Experience will tell you how much to pull up your adjusters,
after a short run they should be barely warm and definitely not hot. For
example my V8 has to have the adjusters one flat looser than the roadster or
they overheat. After all that, assuming sound friction material and drums,
you should be able to lock both rears with the handbrake on a roadster,
possibly not with a GT.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Menno Meijer" <menno.meijer@ict.nl>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@attbi.com>; "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Handbrake problem...
> Thanks a lot for the quick responses... Indeed I forgot to mention that
I've
> already tried to adjust the "adjusting screw" I've set this screw to the
> position in which the shoe just touches the drum on some locations. (You
can
> hear it but hardly feel friction) After this adjustment I've pressed the
> footbrake a couple of times in order to let the shoes "set" themselves
into
> the correct position. After this I've re-adjusted the screw again.
///
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