Hi Greg,
I just completely rebuilt a spare GB series engine (GB-RU-H-11786) that I
picked up last year for my '66 B (GHN3L 78708).
I got the engine as a gift....what I really bought was the D type O/D tranny.
I'm working on the tranny now. I've got it all apart and bought everything I
needed....more about that later....I digress.
Before you start stripping the engine, organize a work area.
As you strip the engine, INSPECT AND CLEAN EVERYTHING you touch. If it's no
good throw it out and get new stuff. If it's good but dirty, clean it and put
it into identifying bags. You can't appreciate how much time and aggrevation
you'll save later as you assemble.
I threw everything in a box when I stripped my engine and had to sort it all
out later....a real pain.
I figured It'd be a quick job...a set of pistons, new bearings...cheap and
easy...right?.....NOT.
A friend finally convinced me (I didn't know the engine at all....got it from
a junk yard) that I should have it boiled and magnafluxed...I did and I don't
regret it.
I had originally measured the bores and the crank...they were all within
spec.... I thought.
When I took it to the shop, they found the bores tapered and the crank pulley
journal was so scored that I couldn't use it. It seems that the DPO had
driven the car with a cracked crank pulley. To make matters worse, he tried
to counterbalance the pulley to get rid of the vibration.....YUK. The cam
lobes were so scored that it was more economical to buy a new one than have
it reground.
I don't want to discourage you....just a few simple steps.
1. Inspect and clean everything scrupulously. buy those things you need ahead
of time and have all the hardware spotlessly clean. There's nothing that will
make you cringe more than putting a dirty bearing cap on #4 bearing with
filthy hardware....you'll see.
2. Have the machine shop go through the block thoroughly. They'll find things
you wouldn't expect. Boiling will destroy all the soft metal parts, so get
new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Take off the ident tag...or you'll loose
it.
3. Have them do the head. My machine shop decked and reground mine and
informed me that I needed new valve springs and exhaust valves. The advice
they give is invaluable. They also decked the flywheel and installed a new
gear.
4. Use Plastigage on all the journals as you assemble. It's cheap insurance
and you'll know just how much clearance you have. Pre-assemble the pistons
and check the ring gap to see that they're in spec. File if necessary.
5. Assembly is straightforward and quick once everything is cleaned and at
hand. Be scrupulously clean....especially when the engine is open and you're
installing things like pistons and the cam.
All the machine shop work was $750. Another $700 or $800 for parts. I know
I'm cutting you short, but if you run into trouble, I have more advice that
I'd be happy to share with you......let me know
Next we'll talk O/D transmissions.
Good luck
Bob Stahlbush
'66 MGB GHN3 L78708
'60 TR3A TS 81398L
///
/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
///
|