Having gone through the install of the heater ('n' times harder than
taking it out) I learnt a few things.
First, go to the Chicago web site and read their dissertation to which, I
am proud to say, I contributed.
Second, make sure your body has the cut for the cable as did the later
model ones (see on Chicago site)
Thirdly, use Dum Dum as a sealer/gasket
Fourthly, adjust the open/shut cable. You have to do this through the
radio hole and the right side vent (with flapper - which you have to
remove). Unless you get this set up correctly you will always get stray
hot/cold air. You will need assistance which can be quite fun as the
'help' has to hold the heater end tight to 'close' while you adjust the
cockpit cable end also to 'close'
I have a few pictures if you want them?
At 08:56 PM 9/12/05, James Harwood wrote:
>Dick and Kyle,
>Ah yes - the heater box!!
>In case you haven't done so already:
>1. Remove the demister tubes from inside the cockpit
>where they insert into the bottom of the air diverter.
>2. Disconnect the diverter control cable completely at
>the control knob on the dash. Oops - it's a 79 -
>control is on the console? Mine's a '74. You probably
>already have it disconnected.
>3. Remove top screw from bracket right at the top of
>the fan box in engine bay. All other screws around the
>Pull top of heater box away from the firewall. It may
>be well sealed around the fan output hole and
>Jiggle it a bit to try and break the seal lower down
>where the demister tubes went through the firewall.
>After a lot of tugging and gentle persuasion, it
>should come out complete with the control cable.
>Remember now, no swearing!
>Ask me how I know about this! Mine is out of the car,
>refurbed with uprated matrix and fan motor. Eventually
>it will make it's way back into the car.
>The overdrive solenoid I believe takes about 1.7 amps
>when initially energized, then settles down to a lower
>current. Before connecting a supply to it, if you have
>an ohm meter, make sure that it isn't either open
>circuit or short circuit. I can't remeber the exact
>resistance reading. My OD box is sitting on the floor
>- I can check it if you like. If it shows a good
>reading, you can try putting a 3A fuse in line to
>test. The only problem is, you won't see or hear much.
>I understand that late OD solenoids are pretty much
>silent in operation. Check the operation of the
>lockout switch with your meter. For a '79, it should
>only let you engage OD in 4th gear. I had to replace
>the switch on my refurbed unit and mess about with the
>fibre washers to get it to operate correctly.
>--- RICHARD BOES <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> > Gents,
> > First off, is there some trick to removing the
> > heater core box? I haven't
> > exerted a lot of pressure on it but something must
> > be holding it back. The
> > parts books don't show it clearly
> > Second issue, when we bought this car, the previous
> > owner stated the overdrive
> > didn't work. After removal of the eng/trans, I
> > discovered chaffed wiring,
> > could I run a fused 12 VDC lead to the solenoid as
> > a test? What size fuse do
> > you recommend?
> > As usual, thank you all for the excellent advice,
> > Dick (Dad) & Kyle (Son - 16) Boes
> > '79 Black B (soon to be racing green)