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Re: MGB overdrive

To: MG List <>
Subject: Re: MGB overdrive
From: Max Heim <>
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 12:45:33 -0800
Ah, I always remove them together, so I never ran into that issue.

Once I helped someone else try to line up the clutch once with the
transmission in the car, and it was such a PITA I resolved to never try it
that way again. Even if the input shaft just happens to slip right in first
try, it's a big pain getting to all the bellhousing bolts. And it's not like
leaving the tranny in place actually saved you any trouble in the first
place -- you still wind up loosening all the mounting bolts and supporting
it with a jack just to try to get it lined up.


Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 2/10/06 11:36 AM, Dodd, Kelvin at wrote:

> Max:
> Re: Alleged is a good word for it.  The RH side of the tunnel next to
> the starter is really close, but so far, all the installs I have done
> had not required any bashing.
> BUT!!!!!
> If you remove the engine only, you will not be able to reinstall the
> engine onto the transmission without thumping the heck out of the RH
> area where the starter goes.  With the transmission on it's mountings
> you cannot lift the front of the trans up high enough to mate with the
> motor because the starter area of the bellhousing will foul the tunnel.
> The moral is to always remove and reinstall the engine and transmission
> as a unit, and you won't have a problem.
> Going back to my notes from the 80s, you are correct the non-OD 3 synch
> box and the later gearboxes are approximately the same length.  You can
> use the original propshaft if the original box was non-OD.
> Kelvin.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 10:21 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: MGB overdrive
> On the subject of this alleged metal-bashing: I installed a late
> 4-synchro
> tranny with LH overdrive into my 66 B, and I did not find a need for any
> "metal bashing". It seemed to fit the tunnel just fine, width-wise. The
> part
> that requires metal work is the top of the tunnel, since the shift lever
> is
> moved about 4 inches further to the rear. It would seem to be simple to
> cut
> a new hole, except for the fact that the 66 has a separate bolt-on top
> piece
> for the tunnel, and the hole would have to be located right though the
> back
> edge of this piece. British Automotive <> sells an
> elongated plastic cover that is a tidy solution to this problem. You
> only
> have to cut out the back edge of the opening a little with a hacksaw.
> One warning about this conversion -- you will no longer be able to use
> any
> fitted tunnel carpet kits, since the profile won't match either standard
> configuration. For a totally tidy "factory" look, you would have to
> hand-sew
> or glue a complex shape. I just padded it out with extra carpet padding,
> and
> added a few snaps.
> I don't know about the prop shaft issue -- seems to me I used the old
> one.
> Maybe that is because I was going from early/non-OD to late/OD. I seem
> to
> recall there were 4 propshaft lengths, for the different combos, and
> some of
> them were so close as to make no difference.

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