Mike,
I replaced my steps a few months ago. Here how I did it
I cut out the original steps, leaving about 1/2 there all the way
around. This 1/2 inch I cleaned really well.
Then I set the new step on top of this 1/2 lip I had left and welded it
in. I did not however weld about a inch either on the step or on the
vertical portion that goes to the floor. In other words the bottom corners.
I didn't because of the pain grinding in a corner like that can be.
One the underside I welded 1 inch beads then none 2 inches, then 1
inch, then 2 none, you get the idea. I did weld the corners totally that I
had not on the top.
After the steps where back in, I spot welded the brace that runs from
the floor to the vertical piece and then (on the underside) used body chalk
on the seams. I'm not sure I have seen these on trucks.
Painted them (again on the underside) and bought myself a coke! =)
As for the door, Mine was on the frame, but not bolted. And the door
post did not flex at all.
Hope this helps!
Terry & Ace
MIKE BOTELER wrote:
> Has anyone ever installed replacement rocker moldings or complete
> steps before? I would like to know if there is anything I should be
> aware of before I start! I need to do one of each on my sons truck.
> For the rocker, should I weld the new piece to the bottom of the step
> (after removing old) or butt weld either at the corner or 1/2" in on
> the step? I don't want to warp the existing step!
>
> Will the door posts move/flex when I remove the complete step or will
> everything stay in place? The cab is not mounted on the frame, it is
> sitting on the floor it that matters.
>
> Also going to do the inner and outer rear cab corners. Do I do
> outers first or inners?
>
> TIA
>
> Mike B. '56 8400 Wrecker :)
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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