Hesston Concrete in Hesston, KS is where I sand blasted the frame. I
tellya.. this wasnt no ordinary sand blaster... it had a HUGE diesel
generator/air compressor trailer attached to a rather large
compressor/hopper and then a fire hose style hose to the blast head. We are
talking mass quantities of sand output here. I went thru 4 55 gallon drums
of sand for just the frame (with front and rear ends attached). My blaster
helmet got so bad so quick I quickly got skilled in the art of blind
sandblasting. They charge $40 and hour if I do it and $60 and hour if they
do it. I felt I would have more control over the quality of the job if I did
it but it took twice as long so wasnt an economic factor.
I wouldnt much care how much it cost (within reason) since sandblasting is
the only option that makes sense. The same will go for the cab, bed, and all
sheetmetal. I am taking those to a place called Kansas Dry Stripping for
them to bead blast the entire enchilada inside and out. I hear they want
around $400 for that. In view of the headache of doing a half-fast job
yourself, why not get it done right? They can get under the dash and in lots
of tight places and I hear the danger of a chemical dip is the residual
chems leaking out of seams after painting and causing problems. I am getting
all this from a few body shop resources I have familiarized myself with
since my escapade with the wire brush deal! All opinions are really welcome
as I need all the help I can get!
Thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: "G. Simmons" <gls@4link.net>
To: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2000 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Silent Stupidity
> Hi Deve:
>
> Experience is the best teacher. Where's that company located? How much
did
> it cost?
>
> On the frame, it all sounds good, and in fact sanding a layer of primer is
> going to give you a really nice finish. Given that frames take a lot of
> small hits, some people use black primer only, since the gray will
contrast
> in little rings around the dings. Instead of DP40 gray, you could use
DP90
> black for the epoxy coat.
>
> I hate the new paint regulations. Urathane is much harder to clean than
the
> acrylic enamels. They're particularly bad if your paint gun attaches to
the
> reservoir via hoses. The hoses clog after one use if you don't spend an
> unreasonable time cleaning them. Urathane sandable primers do sand very
> nicely, however.
>
> Make sure the primer/surfacer is sandable if you plan to sand the middle
> coat. . It's a pain to sand non-sandable paint. The sand paper clogs
very
> quickly.
>
> Regards,
>
> Grant S. gls@4link.net
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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