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Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help

To: <trks@javanet.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
From: "Rich Gallagher" <rgallagrrr@mcn.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 14:10:34 -0700
Grant, does Ginko really work at curing poor memory?  I've been told that I
need help.
Thanks for the explanation.  I think I'm beginning to see how the new drag
link works.
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
To: Rich Gallagher <rgallagrrr@mcn.net>
Cc: Doug Pewterbaugh <dpewter@email.msn.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help


> The replacement arm I got is still configured the same way. Instead of
having
> two sockets for the ball studs it comes with the sealed one piece joints
that
> are part of the drag link. They joints bolt in where the ball studs are.
The
> problem I had was despite Carter's telling me the studs would fit the old
> steering arm they were a different size. I had to use a later  steering
arm and
> maybe even the later pitman arm, can't remember for sure. If I could only
> remember where I put my Ginkgo.
>
> Grant
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
>
> Rich Gallagher wrote:
>
> > >     I ordered a new style drag link also and found it wouldn't fit the
old
> > style steering arm. Had to replace that also.<
> >
> > Opps, I wondered about that!  How would a drag link with two balls
connect
> > to the steering arm with only a hole where the removed ball stud had
been?
> > I think I'll call Chevy Duty.
> > Rich Gallagher
> > 50 1 ton & 56 3200
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Grant Galbraith [mailto:trks@javanet.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:08 AM
> > To: Rich Gallagher
> > Cc: Doug Pewterbaugh; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
> >
> >      I ordered a new style drag link also and found it wouldn't fit the
old
> > style steering arm. Had to replace that also.
> >
> >      I had a hard time grinding off penned area and pressing out. I've
had
> > better luck drilling most of the stud out first.
> >
> > Grant
> > 50 Chevy 3100
> > 52 GMC 150
> >
> > Rich Gallagher wrote:
> >
> > > Doug-
> > > Thanks for the reply.  I've already located the newer style drag link
at
> > > Chevy Duty (part 76-412) with the balls intergal to the drag link.
Have
> > the
> > > knuckle and arm off already but believe you are correct about the
pitman
> > > arm.  I've got it most of the way off with a gear puller but its a
chore
> > to
> > > keep everything aligned so as not to damage the bolt and arm groves.
I'll
> > > give it a couple of more trys and then probably go in search of a
pitman
> > > puller.  As for pressing out the ball studs, I can grind off the
overlap
> > on
> > > the reverse and I'll see if my cheepo press works and if not, take
them to
> > > the machine shop.
> > > Rich Gallagher
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Doug Pewterbaugh [mailto:dpewter@email.msn.com]
> > > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 9:53 AM
> > > To: Rich Gallagher; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
> > >
> > > I see that no one responded to you through the list & I have been
through
> > > this SO... here goes:
> > >
> > > To remove the pitman arm, remove the large nut holding the pitman arm
on.
> > > Next get a "pitman arm puller" tool (yes, this is a specific tool-most
> > gear
> > > pullers won't work).  Try to get a free loaner at your FLAPS.
> > >
> > > After pulling the pitman arm, remove the steering knuckle from the
wheel
> > > (two nuts holding it to the back of the hub).  Take the two parts to a
> > > machine shop (unless you have the tools) & they will have to grind the
> > back
> > > side of the parts (opposite the balls) in order to remove the
"mushroomed"
> > > shaft that is created during manufacture.  Then press the balls out
from
> > the
> > > back side (mine took over 10 tons of pressure to remove).
> > >
> > > If you want to go back to "original" style (pressed in), have the new
> > parts
> > > with you & get the shop to press them in & "mushroom" the backs again.
If
> > > you want to use the bolt in type, take the pitman arm & steering
knuckle
> > > home & bolt the new balls in.
> > >
> > > I got bolt in balls from Jim Carter (he also has the press in type).
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Doug Pewterbaugh
> > > dpewter@msn.com
> > > Denton, TX
> > > 49 3104 216 5-window
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Rich Gallagher <rgallagrrr@mcn.net>
> > > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 11:49 PM
> > > Subject: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
> > >
> > > > Thanks everyone for the help on the drag ling for my 50 1 ton.  I've
> > > soaked
> > > > it a couple of days and cleaned it up tonight and it does look worn.
> > What
> > > > appears to be worse tho is the condition of the balls on the
steering
> > arm
> > > > and the pitman arm.  Both have gouges and groves in them.  Can
someone
> > > tell
> > > > me where I can get new balls for both?  How do I take the pitman arm
> > > > off--looks like a gear puller would do it but I don't want to damage
it.
> > > > Any suggestions?  If I find new balls for both, how are the
installed?
> > > TIA
> > > > (again) for the advice.
> > > > Rich Gallagher
> > > > 50 1 ton & 56 3200
> > > >
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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