Check with The Stovebolt Engine Company, they sell the plate you mentioned. I
got one and it has the holes already tapped and the 4 holes for bolting the
plate to the intake manifold. For an extra $2.00 they will sell you and
instruction sheet for the plumbing. It is worth it.
Antonio,
'53 3100
Allen Jones wrote:
> In my opinion, you'll definitely want to get heat to the intake (whether you
> use the stock intake or, say, an Offenhauser, etc.). Three different camps
> say: "Only water heat will work", "Exhaust heat will work fine" or "It
> doesn't make a damn bit of difference, just get heat to the manifold."
>
> Camp One:
> If you're in the first camp, get a newer style water pump that will have two
> tapped holes for fittings - one will be for your heater, and one that is
> usually plugged will be for heat to your manifold. Then get a GMC
> thermostat housing as it also has two holes for fittings (once again, one
> will be for your heater, and one the other will be for your manifold OR it
> will have a cast boss for you to tap yourself - use an SPF tap, not a
> regular one. Chevs do not have this feature.). Now for the manifold. I
> used some 1/2" plate stock (probably too thick), cut/trimmed to size, and
> drilled four holes so that it would bolt up to the intake. Be sure and make
> a gasket. DO NOT drill the holes for the water lines in the plate yet.
> Bolt up the plate with the Fentons in place. That way you can reconnoiter
> clearance problems as ever setup is slightly different. Mark the locations
> of the holes where you want them in the plate, then remove plate, tap SPF,
> insert necessary fillings and connect water lines. This set up will
> definitely result in excellent cross flow of heat under the intake manifold.
> IMHO, this is the Cadillac setup (and probably works the best), but all the
> lines are a PITB.
>
> Camp Two:
> Make plate described above. As you know, the Fentons have a tapped hole in
> each one. Use 1/2 copper tubing with self crimping fittings (or however
> fancy you want to get), bend (this is a bugger to do with kinking the
> tubing), and hook up. Use a gasket. Some say exhaust will be bad ju-ju for
> the manifold (especially an aluminum one), but I don't agree. If you have
> dual exhaust, I'd only hook up one header to the plate and plug the other
> one off. Hooking both up will really screw up the songs that the dual
> exhaust will sing. If you hook both up, there will be little or no cross
> flow unless you design the necessary fittings and modify the Fentons to
> create a pressure differential across the manifold (email me off line if you
> want to discuss the finer points of this). The one header heat setup is
> what I run (dual exhaust) in Seattle in weather from about 20 degrees on up.
> This set up is very clean and gets the manifold very hot. When cold, the
> truck runs very good - no idle problems whatsoever. (Uh-oh, here come the
> emails from camp one......)
>
> Camp Three:
> You pick.
>
> Sorry if this in more information than you wanted.....
>
> Have fun,
> Allen in Seattle
> '50 3100
> Inliner No. 2235
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Snow <mwsnow@home.com>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: February 23, 2000 9:16 PM
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Fentons Hdrs with Stock Intake - Ideas
>
> I have a stock intake (part# 3886690) with vintage Fentons on my 235. I am
> not positive that this is the correct intake for a 235. It may very well be
> a 216 intake. The underside of the carb mounting area appears to have a
> plate welded flush with the bottom. I have no intake heating of any kind.
> The carb is a Carter YF with manual choke.
>
> I live near San Diego, California. I have driven this setup in cool weather
> down to about 40 degrees. IMHO, some type of manifold heating is advisable.
> Before I parked the truck last July, I drove it 13 miles each way to work.
> My truck needs to run at cruising speed (50 MPH) for a couple miles before
> it will idle well in cool weather. It is simple to compensate for poor fuel
> vaporization by using the choke when the engine is cold. Unfortunately, I
> do no have a functioning throttle cable to raise the idle at the same time.
> God just didn't give me enough feet to do the dance required to bring the
> truck to a stop without stalling it while the engine is warming up.
>
> I am seriously considering installing a stock intake and exhaust just for
> the simplicity, quiet running, and longevity. FWIW, I had similar results
> with my Jeeps (258 I6 with the same YF carb). Headers are for racing!
> Manifold heating helps, even here in the sunny southwest. For all you
> northern oletruckers, HEAT THE INTAKE MANIFOLD!
>
> Way more than my 2 cents,
>
> Mike Snow
> 1953 3100
> Camp Pendleton, California
>
> > > Replaced a badly cracked stock exhaust manifold with Fentons,
> > but want to
> > run
> > >
> > > the stock intake on the 235. Anybody have that setup and did you do
> > anything
> > >
> > > to duct hot exhaust like with the stock setup from the Fentons
> > (construct
> > > some sort of block off plate under middle of intake) up to the old
> > intake?
> > > Also been suggested by others not to bother, that after a
> > while it'll heat
> > > up
> > > anyway even though they are not physically connected like before. Any
> > > thoughts ideas appreciated
> >
> >
> > I'd be interested in this as well, also if anyone replies, please post
> > where you're at and the climate you drive your truck in too.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|