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Re: [oletrucks] paint, repaint

To: dkrehbiel@kscable.com (Deve Krehbiel)
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] paint, repaint
From: Tom3600@webtv.net
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 21:33:48 -0400 (EDT)

Deve -

Every paint has a recoat "window".  Generally speaking its after
tack-free and before 8 hrs. or after 24hrs that it is ok to recoat.
Between 8hrs and before 24hrs the solvent in the recoat paint will
attack the partially cured first coat and cause "lifting and wrinkling".  
You are correct when you say repaint when it is still tacky or after it
is through dry.  Generally lacquers do not have a recoat window because
they dry by evaporation not curing like enamel.  When using a catalyst
(hardener) or an acrylic enamel you can recoat after about 16hrs.
All of this depends on the film thickness, the surface and room
temperature and the solvent that you are reducing with.

Tom Poterack
'49 Chevy 3600

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From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
References: <39174C0A@mail.pdq.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] painted, but another ?
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:32:24 -0500
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Reply-To: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>

Yeah, I painted my Fram Oil Filter Canister with high temp engine enamel.
The next morning I put a coat of clearcoat on it. BAD MOVE! It just raised
the paint and ruined the job. Had to re-blast, re-prime and paint the thing
all over again. I learned that if I waited a few days to clear coat it, it
worked just fine. Same happened with my horn. Took me awhile to figure it
out. You either need to hit the next coat while its still tacky, or wait
until its completely dry. This make sense?

Deve Krehbiel
Hesston, Kansas
1950 3100 * 1949 3600

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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