Maybe I'm just lucky but I have never had any major problems removing
clutchhead screws from my truck! Of course I live in Eastern Washington(very
dry-not prone to rust area). Does anyone know the reasoning behind GM using
those instead of slotted or phillips screws?
Don Simmons
1953 3100
1962 C10 etc.
Othello,Washington
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
To: "JULIE HUBER" <JHUBER@alltel.net>
Cc: "oltrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Removing clutchhead screws
> I just feel that a person has to strike a balance between restoration and
> preservation. To do a proper restore job, one must keep preservation in
mind
> as well so when I think of my truck and where it will be in another 50
> years, certain items that were stock just dont lend themselves to
> practicality when all things are considered. Adding weld nuts where sheet
> metal screws pierced and warbled the skin of the firewall, stainless steel
> brake lines with Cat 5 fluid, a 12 volt system disguised to look like 6
> volts, etc.. etc.. make the truck worth more than being a hardhead and
> sticking with things that have proven over the years to be a bad idea.
> Clutch head screws lasted how long? Where are they now? Our ancestors may
> have been geniuses in most aspects of the AD, but they werent perfect. By
> ensuring that fittings and misc hardware are state of the art, we are
> ensuring our restore jobs will be preserved for just that much longer.
>
> If it would make the buyer of my truck (someday) feel better, I will
include
> a bag of clutchhead screws (a complete set) for posterity. I got tons of
> them.. all stripped out or rusted beyond belief.
>
> To answer your question in short.. it wont be! ;)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JULIE HUBER" <JHUBER@ALLTEL.NET>
> To: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
> Cc: "oltrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 4:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Removing clutchhead screws
>
>
> > how will it be original?
> > Greg in Fla
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
> > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 11:23 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Removing clutchhead screws
> >
> >
> > >I had a problem with clutchheads on the WHOLE truck.. While
> disassembling,
> > >they pretty much all either stripped or broke. I have no respect for
the
> > >clutchhead concept and will not use them at all when reassembling. Even
> my
> > >clutchhead screwdrivers are all stripped and broken after using them on
> one
> > >truck!
> > >
> > >Deve Krehbiel
> > >Hesston, Kansas
> > >1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400
> > >www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
> > >To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 1:54 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Removing clutchhead screws
> > >
> > >
> > >> I had a major problem with the clutchhead screws when I started
trying
> to
> > >> take off the weatherstripping around my driver's side door. (The '47
> AD
> > >has
> > >> the weatherstripping held in place by a metal strip....held on with
> about
> > >20
> > >> clutchhead screws!) Finally resorted to holding an old screwdriver
> > >against
> > >> the screw heads and pounding on the screwdriver with a hammer. As
> NMJim
> > >> says, this jars the screws loose. I then used a small pair of
> vice-grips
> > >to
> > >> turn the screws and take them out.
> > >> Tom Caperton
> > >> 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > >>
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: New Mexico Jim <ADvent@thuntek.net>
> > >> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 12:28 PM
> > >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] clutchhead sizes?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> > I used a pneumatic chisel at a 45º angle and just using enough
> pressure
> > >to
> > >> keep
> > >> > the chisel at the head of the clutch head and blipped it a few
times
> > and
> > >> the
> > >> > vibrations vibrated the rust and crud loose enough to remove
without
> > >> twisting the
> > >> > head off or rounding out the clutch head hole. Works pretty good. I
> did
> >
> > >it
> > >> this
> > >> > way on the trans cover on the floor board of my '50 ½ ton.
> > >> >
> > >> > Pastorjon994@cs.com wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > > Don,
> > >> > > I did get a clutchhead bit to work on those. I twisted
several
> > >> screws
> > >> > > off so be careful. If I could only remember which one that I
used.
> I
> > >> think I
> > >> > > have a 1/8, 3/32, 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Jon Callahan
> > >> > > '50 3100
> > >> > > Champaign/Urbana, Illinois
> > >> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941
and
> > >1959
> > >> >
> > >> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > >
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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