Deve,
I did that swap by using the 54 rearend in the past also. A little hint if
you happen to do that again would be to rotate the spring around and switch
the eye bolts on the leaf spring. This will position the axle further back
in the fender opening and you might not have to make up the spacer bracket.
My Uncle was also telling me that when he wanted taller gears in the rearend
for highway driving he pulled the torque tube rearend and springs from a
Chevy car and installed the complete assembly in the truck. I'll have to
get more specific details from him and include that on the page as well.
Setting up a newer rearend in the AD's really isn't that hard but like you
say, you have measuring, torching and do some welding. Another advantage
of the newer rearend is the self adjusting brake system.
I'll keep working on the rearend conversion page every chance I get so that
other AD truck owners won't have to struggle and bust their knuckles like I
did in learning what works.
Joe Garcia
Yuba City, CA
1950 Chevrolet 3100
http://chevy1.freeservers.com/
http://50chevy.freeservers.com/
http://1950Jeepster.freeservers.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
To: oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, November 30, 2000 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] rearend size (dont laugh!!!) and "easy 5 bolt"
>Good idea Joe! Meanwhile, there are a lot of people who want to replace the
>torque tube on an AD with an open driveline. Ideas on how to go about this
>are as varied as there are people on the list. I personally dont savor
extra
>effort for no gain, so I can offer this as the very best way to do it.
>Opinions vary, but when it comes to the rubber hitting the road, this
worked
>best for me.
>
>Obtain a 55 1st series rear end. The perches are already there, the lug
>pattern is exactly the same, the brakes work with the older hucks brakes
>perfectly, the brake lines fit together the same as the torque tube, the
>emergency brake cables mate up perfectly... there is only one precaution
and
>that is to get the leaf springs when you get the rear end. If you use the
>torque tubes springs, your rear end will sit 2 inches further forward than
>it should. I just made an adapter plate to compensate, but if you dont want
>to fabricate, weld, or do anything but turn a wrench on the entire project,
>get the 55 1st leafs.
>
>The above will elliminate carrying two spare tires because your front drums
>are 6 lug and the modern rears are 5 lug thus needing to find 53-54 car
>drums, welding on perches, fabricating a bracket for the e-brake cables,
>redoing brake lines, etc. Unless part of your fun is all the entertainment
>that extra work provides.. lots of ole truckers enjoy the challenge.
Nothing
>wrong with that.
>
>Deve Krehbiel
>Hesston, Kansas
>1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
>www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>To: "Terry Bancesco" <drducttape@hotmail.com>; "oletrucks list"
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 11:08 AM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] rearend size (dont laugh!!!) and "easy 5 bolt"
>
>
>> Terry,
>>
>> I have a chart that I've been trying to create that list the actual width
>of
>> the rearend from backing plate to backing plate and the spring perch
>> distance. I only have one Chevrolet lug pattern rearend listed with the
>> perch width of 44" that your looking for:
>>
>> '67 Chevrolet with a 6 cylinder
>>
>> That rearend also has a backing plate to backing plate distance of
roughly
>> 52-53"
>>
>> Could you measure the backing plate distance of your rearend for me so
>I'll
>> know what we're dealing with on clearances.
>>
>> I'd like to ask for everyone's assistance to see if the next chance they
>> have if they could measure the distance between the spring perches and
>> backing plates so I could added them to my charts. I would need to know
>the
>> year and engine size also.
>>
>> Hope this helps and thanks to those who send me the information.
>>
>> P.S. In regards to the conversion to 5 lug up front your easiest best
>would
>> be 54 Chevy car hubs.
>>
>>
>> Joe Garcia
>> Yuba City, CA
>> 1950 Chevrolet 3100
>>
>> http://chevy1.freeservers.com/
>> http://50chevy.freeservers.com/
>> http://1950Jeepster.freeservers.com/
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Terry Bancesco <drducttape@hotmail.com>
>> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 8:47 PM
>> Subject: [oletrucks] rearend size (dont laugh!!!) and "easy 5 bolt"
>>
>>
>> >Hi All!!!
>> >
>> >Another couple of quick questions for the experts:
>> >
>> >I have access to a rearend (5 bolt) that I want, but here's the catch,
>The
>> >distance between the centerbolts on my 57 GMC is 42", and the other rear
>is
>> >44".
>> >
>> >Is there any "easy" way to wedge the desired rearend into the pickup, or
>is
>> >this an entirely lost cause?
>> >
>> >Any reccomendations for 5 bolt rearends that will just bolt up?
>> >(Years/models)
>> >
>> >ALSO:
>> >
>> >What's the easiest way to convert 6 bolt front hubs to 5 bolt?
>> >
>> >I'm into the boneyard picks, 'cause I dont got tha bucks!!!
>> >
>> >Any time/money saving tips you experts out there have will be greatly
>> >appreciated!!!
>> >
>> >Thanks!!!
>> >
>> >P.S. Thanks for all the bodywork, and paint tips on my last post, I
>have
>> >not got the truck painted yet, but it's in the works!!!
>> >
>> >Dr.Ducttape
>>
>>__________________________________________________________________________
_
>> __________
>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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