Yes you have to remove the differential pan on the rear of the housing.
There is a large screw that you must remove, then take out the spacer block,
then push in on the axles slightly and remove the C clips and the shafts
will come out. Installation is the reverse.
The filler and drain hole are one and the same. Loosen and remove all the
bolts from the top 2/3 of the diff cover then loosen the bottom 4 bolts. If
your cover has been on for years it will stick. You can actually drain the
rear from the 2 most bottom bolt holes. Pry the cover gently off with a
large screwdriver or stiff putty knife. Be sure to clean both mating
surfaces prior to putting on the new gasket.
Jon 50 3104
Chicago burbs
----- Original Message -----
From: "craig k" <vwbus@ckoon.org>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] rear axle questions
> >Yes,
> > You do have to remove the axles, But it shoundn't take too long,
the
> >drain hole is the differental plate. Remove plate, remove center pin,
remove
> >keepers and pull axles.
> > Have fun
> > Jeff
> > Mostly 54-55 1st
>
>
> That seems too easy :) The shop manual stresses peening nuts for safety
and
> other stuff that makes me a bit nervous to open the diff myself.
> Anyone have this done at a shop, and the costs involved?
>
> craig
> caretaker of
> stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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