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[oletrucks] 216 or 235

To: Old Trucks List <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: [oletrucks] 216 or 235
From: J Forbes <jforbes@primenet.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 18:04:15 -0700
> Hi all!
> 
> I believe my '51 one ton should have a 216 originally.  In an early post,
> someone mentioned the 216 has 2 bolts in the center of the valve cover,
> while the 235 has 4 bolts on the sides of the cover.  My motor has the 235
> style valve cover.  According to the shop manual (I finally got one!), the
> bore for the 216 is 3 1/2 inches and the 235 is supposed to be 3 9/16
> inches.  I measured the bore with nothing more accurate than a steel tape
> measure and it looks like exactly 3 1/2 inches and would imply this is a
> 216.
> 
Justin--

Others will probably have more detailed info, but
there were some funny things going on in the early
50s.  The early 50s Powerglide equipped cars had the
235 engine, although it was built like a 216.  In
1953, the 235 was all that was available, but they
were built like the 216, with the stud retained
valve cover, iron pistons, etc.  

Look for casting dates!  They will be something
like:  B 29 2, which translates:  B=Feb, 2nd month;
29=29th day of the month; 2 = last digit of year; if
it has a side cover that goes over the head, then
it's 52 (or 42), if it has no provision for the side
cover on the head, then it's 62.  The block date
code is on the side, usually hiding behind the
starter, you might be able to see it if you look
closely and it's not too grungy.  The head date code
will be on top under the valve cover.  The date
codes are usually rather large nubmers and are cast
in, not stamped.

I think the 235 head will bolt on the 216, but the
side cover may present problems?  it's also possible
someone tapped holes in a 216 head to hold the newer
valve cover?

The engines with babbit rod bearings usually run
about 10-25 psi oil pressure (depending on rpm),
while the full pressure engines run about 20-50
psi.  Babbit bearings work ok, they're a pain to
rebuild, because you may have to have the rods
rebabbited.  They are not quite up to the rpm and
torque capacity that the insert type bearings can
handle.  If you aren't going for originality, and
have an insert type engine available to rebuild, go
for it...but you can live with the babbits if that's
what you have, or you want to keep it original.

A dressed up 235 looks really neat!

This might give you some clues...ask more questions
as you need.

Jim F
59s in AZ
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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