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RE: [oletrucks] Installing Windows

To: "'Deve Krehbiel'" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>,
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Installing Windows
From: Terry Stellman <STELLMAN@noex.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 07:43:43 -0500
The rubber for my corner and back windows was cut to fit.  I don't think it
comes any other way.  I doubt that these cabs were built to close enough
tolerances to make one size fits all gaskets.

Terry Stellman
1949 3600
Missouri City, Texas

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Deve Krehbiel [SMTP:dkrehbiel@kscable.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 7:36 AM
> To:   oletrucks
> Subject:      Re: [oletrucks] Installing Windows
> On an AD, you do not trim the window rubber to fit. The rubber comes
> completely closed at both ends and the right size to fit in the opening. I
> can attest to what happens when people hack the rubber to fit. It shrinks
> over a short period of time and then water pours into the hole and rusts
> out
> the entire area of the truck. If you found a vendor that has just lengths
> of
> rubber, be sure to cut the rubber extra long or what looks fine now will
> turn into a very expensive nightmare of rewelding floor, gas tank, cab and
> replacing any hardware in the waters path inside the cab. I am doing a
> truck
> as we speak where this was the problem. Taken me the last 3 months of
> replacing almost all the entire cab sheet metal as a result. Dash, side
> cowls, all floor panels, gas tank, gas tank mounts, floor supports, behind
> the gas tank and under it, lower door sheet metal, lower door hinge cab
> sheet metal ALL RUINED and requiring rewelding due to someone using a
> length
> of rubber rather than buying the correct item. The damage I describe would
> be normal with the windows out, but they were IN!
> Original point being, the vendors have totally closed window rubber that
> requires no cutting or trimming. Only the lock strip will require that
> (again cut it extra long and caulk the ends). Its the way to go!
> Deve Krehbiel
> Hesston, Kansas
> 1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mac Kinghorn" <kinghorn@granite.mb.ca>
> To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 9:46 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Installing Windows
> > Read this with interest as I had similar problems when I installed my
> back
> > window.  Spoke to one of the neighbors that luckily ran the body shop
> for
> > one of the major Ni---n Dealers in town and he came over and gave me a
> hand.
> > First off don't be cheap with the dish soap when putting the window into
> the
> > rubber.  Secondly, and this sounds like the problem in Mike Klepp's
> case,
> > once the window is in the rubber it may still have to be pushed forward
> into
> > the cab to get it centered in the opening.  If the glass is not pushed
> in
> > far enough you will have a real Bit-- of a time getting the lock strip
> in.
> > Once you have the window centered in the rubber the lock strip tool will
> > work quite well and although the lock strip is a bit tough to put in it
> > should go in fairly easily.  again use plenty of dish soap mix in the
> groove
> > as it will help the tool to slide and the lock strip slip into place.
> One
> > question did you use any kind of rubber cement on the ends of the window
> > rubber after you had trimmed it to fit.  Another thing is do not put the
> end
> > of the lock strip anywhere in the area of the split in the window
> gasket.
> > Preferably the window rubber split should be approximately bottom center
> and
> > the lock strip split should be on the top center of the window gasket.
> >
> > Hope this helps
> >
> > Mac
> > 52 Chev 1300
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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