I just caught this thread, and remembered what we used to do with spot welds
on old race car tubs and such. When we could, tied the piece to the mill
table and used a slightly over the diameter of the spot flat mill to erase
the spot to the interface. When it was difficult to move the car to the mill
table, used a magnetic clamping attachment that held the 3/8 drill motor in
kind of a drill press arrangement and put the mill tool in that - got a
little chatter sometime, but better that drilling out and having to fill the
hole. On curves and non-magnetic parts, it was more of a challenge.
How's tricks otherwise? First Sat. in May is approaching again.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Rogge" <email@example.com>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: Spotweld cutters
> I just thought I might add that the point of the whole operation
> is to stop cutting once you've cut through the first layer of
> sheetmetal. And that the layer you want to cut should be the one
> which is going to be replaced. I there are more than 2 layers
> welded together and the one to be replaces is in the middle
> then I don't know what the best approach would be.
> Also, thanks to everyone who replied. So far the results are
> running pretty even so I don't know which one I'll try first.
> It looks to me like one advantage the hole saw type cuttes might
> have over the others is that they seem to have a longer reach.
> This may be important in removing one of the pieces I'm replacing.
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