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RE: Adhesive question

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Adhesive question
From: David Scheidt <dmschei@attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 03:25:35 -0500
>I went to TAP Plastics to see if they could identify the hinge's 
>plastic. No luck. The counter lady applied TAP's super solvent that 
>welds just about everything. It just evaporated off the hinge.
>
>I ended up at a sailing shop. They had an adhesive you might want to 
>try called Mr Sticky's Underwater Glue (Millwork Specialties, CA). 
>It is a pretty thick epoxy that is actually supposed to be 
>applicable underwater. http://www.underwaterglue.com/ (No financial 
>connection, BTW)


Almost all (All I've ever tried, even) epoxies will set underwater. 
Once you mix the epoxy and the amine (the "hardener") together, in 
the proper ratio, it will cure.  In vacuum, underwater, in any 
solvent that doesn't attack it, below freezing, whatever. 
(Temperature will change set time, but even at really low 
temperatures, they'll cure, eventually.) That's one of the things 
that makes epoxies so nice, they're hard to screw up.

Getting it to stick to a wet surface is a different problem, of 
course.  Adhesion to whatever it is you're trying to stick it to is 
one of the few common failure modes.  Good surface prep -- sanding, 
filing, grinding, cleaning with a solvent, helps quite a bit.

The other common problems with epoxies are not mixing correctly, and 
not using enough in the bonding area.  Follow the instructions; 
adding more hardener will not make it set faster.  If you need
a different set speed, use a different product.  (I have a really 
hard time squeezing the same amount of stuff out of two little tubes, 
which is why I'm a fan of epoxies that come in a dual syringe type 
package, or as putties.) When using an epoxy as an adhesive to glue 
two pieces together, don't clamp so hard that all the epoxy is forced 
out of the joint.

David

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