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Re: Water Heater question

To: Randall <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Water Heater question
From: Pat Horne <pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 21:48:26 -0500
Randall wrote:
<snip>

>  
>
>>T/P valves usually leak because either the inlet pressure is too high,
>>or the heater is set to a rather high temperature. Try turning the
>>temperature down on the water heater and see if it stops leaking.
>>    
>>
>
>The "temperature" setting should be far higher than the water heater setting
>will go, it's primarily for when the thermostat fails "on" and does not shut 
>off
>the heat.  
>
I had a fairly old (10 year or so) water heater that would drip if the 
temperature was turned all the way up. Turning it down a bit made it 
quit. I have a large jacuzzi tub that would completely drain the water 
heater, so I bumped the temperature up to have some reserve hot water 
for the shower. Ended up replacing the water heater with a larger one.

>And, as long as the inlet line from the water main is not blocked
>off, the pressure is limited by the mains pressure.
>  
>

Quite a few homes now have anti-back flow valves in the incoming water 
line. If this house has one, and the surge tank that was mentioned has 
either sprung a leak in the diaphram, or if it has no diaphram, is water 
logged, the water heater could be pushing the pressure up to the point 
where the T.P valve will vent.

As a test, first open a hot faucet and see if it stops leaking. If it 
stops, you have a pressure problem.

To test for a temperature problem,  turn off the water heater, turn on a 
hot water faucet on for a few seconds to be sure the surge tank isn't 
holding high pressure, then see if the leak continues. If it does, then 
the T/P valve is probably bad

You may have a pressure regulator coming into the house that is allowing 
full main water pressure to be seen by the house. Pressure regulators 
here in Austin are used if the water pressure is above 65 PSI. If you 
have one, it could be bad too).

Call the water utility to find out if you have a anti-back flow valve at 
the meter. If you do, check the surge tank, it could either be isolated 
with a valve, defective, or water logged. Turn off the water heater and 
turn off the valve on the cold water line going into the water heater. 
Open a hot water faucet and see if you get more than a little water out 
of the faucet. You should get at least 1/4 of the volume of the surge 
tank. If you don't get much, the surge tank is probably defective.

Let us know what you find.

Peace,
Pat

>So, in my experience, a leaking T/P valve means it needs to be replaced.  If
>memory serves, that is even mentioned in the owner's manual that came with my
>hot water heater.
>http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/PressureRelief.htm
>
>Randall
>  
>

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