Thanks guys. That is exactly the information I was looking for.
Brian: doing nothing is certainly an option, but the amount of rain we now
have in St. Louis could prove to be a challenge. I don't know if it is due to
climate change or just the cycle we are in, but when they dug the foundation
in March we were told that all they needed was three consecutive dry days to
be able to pour the walls. That took three months. If the car had been put
in there in March, it is possible that I would have been unable to move it
yet. Still, you are correct: it is a lot of work and probably considerable
expense just for the occasional use.
Thanks for the photo Bill. What is even more valuable is knowing that you are
still happy after two years. And, John: thanks for letting me know about
Invisible Structures. That definitely looks like an option. I suspect that
Bill's concrete system would stand up to much more traffic, but one like yours
might be absolutely perfect for our occasional use.
I am meeting with the contractor tomorrow morning am now in a better position
to discuss my options intelligently. Thanks again!
> Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 23:40:58 -0700
> From: jem@milleredp.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grass Pavers
>
> On 7/9/2011 9:26 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> > Jim - If you are just moving a car once or twice a year, I wouldn't
> > bother with grass pavers.
>
> When we redid our driveway as part of a remodel a few years back, we put
> this in the lawn next to the driveway:
>
> http://www.invisiblestructures.com/grasspave2.html
>
> Sits on a bed of gravel, then the grasspave, then sand, then sod.
>
> We drive over it regularly with everything up to a 3/4-ton Suburban, and
> the route into and out of my trailer-parking slot next to the garage
> goes over it. It's worked well for us.
>
> Issues:
>
> a) Make sure the installer (or you...) knows what they're doing. I had
> a guy working on the lawn who'd never worked with it before, and I
> pretty much had to follow him around getting things done the way I
> wanted them. Not super-difficult but certainly more involved than just
> rolling out sod.
>
> b) Make sure the lawn drains. We had a couple low spots where the grass
> would be too easily torn up due to water puddling. Every year I'd add
> half an inch of dirt and some seed to low areas, and after three years
> or so everything was good.
>
> c) If you've got a sprinkler system pay careful attention to the heads
> vs the grasspave. Even then, digging up a sprinkler head for pipe
> repair will be quite a challenge.
>
> d) It still won't protect the grass from bald spots where, for instance,
> you did a bunch of steering-wheel cranking while backing a trailer in.
> Keep some seed handy for the inevitable.
>
> John.
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