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Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads

To: Jim Stone <>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
From: Brian Kemp <>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 16:22:55 -0700
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I don't recall any special challenges on my 2004 Odyssey when I last did 
those brakes.  Be sure to properly support the calipers so the dust 
boots on the pistons don't snag on anything.

You can test the little rotor holding screws easily.  Just take the tire 
off and see if they come undone.  Use a good screwdriver of the right 
size.  If they come loose, you know you can change the rotor. You should 
be able to find the specs on the minimum thickness of a rotor to know 
how much life is left.

I'm one of the ones that open the bleed screw before pushing the piston 
back in.  If there is contamination in the caliper, I don't want that 
fluid going back up the system.  I just put a small hose on the bleed 
screw and run it up over something high so no air goes in then down into 
a jar.  A quick grip bar clamp is handy for squeezing the piston back 
in, unless you have a VW like my wife's. You will likely need to add 
some fluid in the master cylinder afterwards.


On 7/2/2015 11:56 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I had the timing chain replaced yesterday on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline (190,000
> miles) and was told that the front brakes only had a little life left in them,
> but that the rotors couldnbt be turned so I needed to replace everything to
> the tune of more than $400.  Ibd like to avoid putting that much more into
> the car, especially after yesterdaybs bill, and will probably just do the
> brakes myself.  I have never done brakes on anything newer than a mid-70bs
> Toyota, but have researched the Ridgeline and the job looks fairly
> straightforward.  First, though, I have to decided if I need to replace just
> the pads or if I should do the rotors while I am at it.
> I am not 100% sure I trust this dealer yet, especially after I asked some
> questions about the rotors.  I was originally told they would be too thin
> after turning.  Then I asked if they were scored or warped and he said they
> were fine but added something about not being able to turn them due to
> corrosion on the edges. So, I am not sure exactly why they canbt be turned.
> I asked about just changing the pads and he said that more than likely this
> would result in pulsing of the brakes due to smooth pads on worn rotors.
> First question to the group: do we agree with him on that?  Which leads to my
> second question: has anyone here used EBC Greenstuff pads?
> (  I have been told that
> the bBrake-In Coatingb is basically a sandpaper finish that sands the
> rotors during the initial stops and smooths out the wear patterns from the
> previous pads.  If this is correct, I might be able to get away with just a
> quick and dirty pad replacement.
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