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Question for the List: Is it proper to quench--in water, presumably, or
oil maybe--copper to achieve softness after it's been heated 'cherry red?'
Bob
On 8/8/2020 6:43 AM, old dirtbeard wrote:
> I sort of like your idea about the self-cleaning oven cycle. It would
> be very even heat, the right temperature, should not hurt the oven.
>
> Maybe just wait to do it while the wife is away for an hour or so... :-)
>
> best,
>
> doug
>
> On Sat, Aug 8, 2020 at 5:37 AM Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com
>
> Pay a local shop with an oxy/acetylene rig to heat them? Muffler
> shop, body shop, A/C contractor? A/C contractor sometimes use
> air/acetylene. Will that get hot enough?
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>
>
> On Aug 7, 2020, at 11:25 PM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com
>
> 
>
> I have fabricated a number of 1/8 and 3/16^th inch thick busbars
> for an Van RV build electrical system which I am assembling in my
> shop. The busbars are already bent to shape, but Iâ??d like to
> anneal them, because the copper was purchased in the  â??Half-Hardâ??
> state and making them â??Dead-Softâ?? will insure that they lay
> completely flat to maximize the conductivity when I final assemble
> the system.
>
> I usually anneal copper by getting it hot enough to glow with a
> propane torch and then allow it to cool. With the mass of these
> busbars, I canâ??t get them up to a temperature to where they glow
> with propane. An Oxy/Acetylene torch would work, but I donâ??t have
> one. MAPP gas is hotter, but I donâ??t think itâ??s a lot hotter.
>
> I am considering running them through the cleaning cycle in the
> self-cleaning over, as a self-cleaning oven will typically runs up
> to around 900°F. Copper needs 700-1,200°F to anneal, so it should
> be fine.
>
> Iâ??d prefer almost any other solution. Thoughts? The last time I
> used our oven for a shop project, it was to cure the paint on the
> jugs (cylinders) of my â??74 Norton motorcycle. Mrs. Jack was not
> happy. Copper bars should be fine as they wonâ??t stink up the house.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jack
>
>
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Question for the List: Is it proper to quench--in water, presumably,
or oil maybe--copper to achieve softness after it's been heated
'cherry red?'<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/8/2020 6:43 AM, old dirtbeard
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAG1pxgakax3smook6vRShkTGWrxuqMqcWFuw+Rog5cwypjpT4A@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">I sort of like your idea about the self-cleaning
oven cycle. It would be very even heat, the right temperature,
should not hurt the oven.Â
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Maybe just wait to do it while the wife is away for an hour
or so... :-)</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>doug</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Aug 8, 2020 at 5:37 AM
Pat Horne <<a href="mailto:patintexas@icloud.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">patintexas@icloud.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">Pay a local shop with an oxy/acetylene rig to
heat them? Muffler shop, body shop, A/C contractor? A/C
contractor sometimes use air/acetylene. Will that get hot
enough?
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Peace,</div>
<div>Pat<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Pat HorneÂ
<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
On Aug 7, 2020, at 11:25 PM, Jack Brooks <<a
href="mailto:JIBrooks@live.com"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">JIBrooks@live.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">I have fabricated a number of
1/8 and 3/16<sup>th</sup> inch thick busbars for
an Van RV build electrical system which I am
assembling in my shop. The busbars are already
bent to shape, but Iâ??d like to anneal them,
because the copper was purchased in the
 â??Half-Hardâ?? state and making them â??Dead-Softâ??
will insure that they lay completely flat to
maximize the conductivity when I final assemble
the system.
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">I usually anneal copper by
getting it hot enough to glow with a propane torch
and then allow it to cool. With the mass of these
busbars, I canâ??t get them up to a temperature to
where they glow with propane. An Oxy/Acetylene
torch would work, but I donâ??t have one. MAPP gas
is hotter, but I donâ??t think itâ??s a lot hotter.
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">I am considering running them
through the cleaning cycle in the self-cleaning
over, as a self-cleaning oven will typically runs
up to around 900°F. Copper needs 700-1,200°F to
anneal, so it should be fine.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Iâ??d prefer almost any other
solution. Thoughts? The last time I used our
oven for a shop project, it was to cure the paint
on the jugs (cylinders) of my â??74 Norton
motorcycle. Mrs. Jack was not happy. Copper bars
should be fine as they wonâ??t stink up the house.
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Thanks in advance,</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman",serif">Jack</span></p>
</div>
<span></span><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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