Responses found throughout the message below. I'd still like to put the
Lucas 40000 volt Sport coil on. Any tips or instructions? Can I use it with
the 80 "replacement" electronic ignition?
Greg, since you are looking for a quick response I'll give it a shot.
Your voltage readings indicate a weak charging circuit to me. Have you
checked the security of the grounds? There is supposed to be a fat wire
braid from the bell housing to the body that some times gets 'lost' if the
engine was ever pulled.
--> The battery negative goes (small wire) to the body, (large wire) to the
bellhousing.
There is also a major ground lug on the frame, LF of the engine
compartment, near the bottom of the slant radiator. Make sure those are
clean and tight.
-->This seems to be OK. I hit it with contact cleaner.
The ballast resistor is a wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the
ignition switch. The silver thing you mentioned is the 'drive resistor' and
was part of the original Lucas ignition, should be OK to leave it off.
Gotta ask: was the alternator tested RECENTLY? Is the v-belt tight? Are
the battery cables clamping tightly? (I once had one that had poor
continuity on its ends)
-->tested less than 2 weeks ago, belt's ok, battery cables and starter cable
are BRAND NEW. (Found then at Pep Boys for cheap)
Check that stuff out & get back to us...
Cheers,
Atwell Haines
'79 Spitfire
At 04:38 AM 5/18/99 -0400, Gregory W. Smith wrote:
>
>My 1980 Spit has had charging trouble since its purchase last fall.
>Generally, the car won't make it over about 3 hours of daylight driving,
>less if at night (surprise)
>
>At Carlisle this weekend I was able to find a 2" volt gauge that appears to
>give me the information I need... but I'd like your opinions.
>
>As per another lister's comment, I just got the Wal-Mart special $20
>mechanical gauges (temp sender fits great, amps was a pain to wire, haven't
>done the oil pressure yet) They will be permanently located in the radio
>blanking plate as soon as I can find one (hint, hint!!)
>
>This gave me the temp gauge hole to hook up the VW voltmeter. I used the
>Temp gauge's old ground, and set about figuring where to hook up the
>positive.
>
>With the key off, I get
> 13v at the battery
> 13v at the alternator center (big brown) wire
> 0v at the other alternator connections.
>This makes sense, because I traced the (big brown) wire to the starter
>relay, where it's tied to the battery + lead.
>
>With the car running, it gets weird. I get <8 to 12v in a flutter, probably
>averaging 7-10v It rarely hits 12v at all. The ammeter shows a constant,
but
>small draw, until the lights are turned on.
>
>The battery and alternator have both been bench tested. The only thing I
can
>think of is (maybe...) the ballast resistor. I do have a small aluminum
>thing with one lead that's attached to the alternator. It's probably 1"
>square, with a 1" x1/2" x1/2" finned blob and the rest is the mounting lug.
>It was removed for the alternator testing.
>
>Does the 1980 Spitfire use a ballast resistor? I have the "warranty
>replacement" electronic ignition, apparently this was a factory recall.
>
>I have an unidentifiable coil (came with the car), but have a Lucas 40Kv
>Sport coil available. What would it take to install the Sport coil? Is
there
>any wiring change I need to do?
>
>Last of all, I would appreciate a prompt reply: I'm going 3 1/2 hours to
the
>Richmond Triumph Register (VA) show this weekend. Weather permitting, I
want
>to bring the Spitfire!
>
>Gregory W. Smith http://www.cvn.net/~gsmith
>Member, Central Pennsylvania Triumph Club
>1980 Spitfire 1500 "for the wife" :)
>1980 TR7 Spider v8 (in progress)
>1980 TR7 30th Anniversary Edition (deceased)
>
>
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