Might want to plug that little by pass valve on the opposite side from the
linkage while your there. It doesn't do anything but cause problems.
Take a nice piece of the leftover gaskets and plug that puppy up.
-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Hensley [mailto:susan@bearcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 10:03 AM
To: Bollinger, Bob D. (BODB)
Cc: 'spitfires@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuild Kit
Hi Bob!
Rebuilding the carb IS a simple job -- you just have to follow the
instructions carefully and take care to make sure you don't nick the new
seals or diaphragm. I use a dental pick tool to fish the old o-rings
and seals out of the hard-to-get-to places.
Two tips:
1) Be sure to fit the tab on the diaphragm into the slot on the top edge
of the bowl.
2) Be sure to replace the butterfly linkage o-ring(s) (where the linkage
enters the carb body).
And be aware you will have extra parts -- the manufacturers enclose all
seals and gaskets for variations of carbs so they don't have to
specialize their kits and make life more difficult. You may have a
gasket for a water choke and one for a manual choke, for example. Read
the instructions carefully and compare the parts you remove to make sure
the right one goes back on.
Good luck! I hope this helps!!
Keep Triumphing,
Susan Hensley :)
Bollinger, Bob D. (BODB) wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any experience installing one of those carb rebuild kits
> for a stock Zenith Stromberg like they sell in Moss & the other catalogs?
I
> have a '79 and am wondering about the difficulty and necessity of doing a
> carb rebuild (the catalog says "it's easier than you think"). I don't
have
> any specific problems with the carb, but from the postings on this list
the
> proper functioning of the carb seems awfully important. Maybe it's the
type
> of thing that after doing it I'd notice the difference, but I wouldn't
know
> until I did it. I'm sure the PO never did anything to the carb so maybe
> cleaning it up after 20 years is a good thing to do.
>
> I'm expecting some responses to say bag the ZS and go to a Weber, which
I'd
> be willing to undertake but I've never gotten a straight answer out of
> anyone on how I can still pass emissions since this is a modification of
the
> emissions system (I live in CA). Is the answer here to hopefully find a
> testing shop that "doesn't realize this is a modification" or do I would I
> have to put the ZS back on every two years for the test?
>
> Thanks, Bob
> '79 Spit
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