One thing I did was to move the routing of the line from under the water
pump to up and over the top of the head between the goose neck of the
radiator hose and the valve cover. I also installed small pieces of hose
secured to the metal line by wire ties. This keeps the line up above
everything and the rubber hose pieces keep the line away and vibration free
of the metal parts.
Go to the Rouges Gallery and you can see some pictures.
http://www.jacksonville.net/~spitfires/CraigSmith.htm
The Bright metal thing is my sensor cable for the mechanical Temp guage.
I though if I can get rid of as many electrical thingys the better.
-----Original Message-----
From: Banbury, Terrence [mailto:Terrence.Banbury@dnr.state.oh.us]
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 8:01 AM
To: 'spitfires@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: Vapor Lock
Terry,
Check the routing of your fuel line. Try to keep it away from 'hot' parts
of the engine. Even 1/2" of clearance is better than none. I've found that
over time a fuel line may work it's way closer to the engine block.
Terry Banbury
Mk III
> ----------
> From: Terry L. Thompson[SMTP:tlt@digex.net]
> Reply To: Terry L. Thompson
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 9:26 PM
> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> Subject: Vapor Lock
>
>
> With the addition of a header next month and a set of dual HIF4's (which
> are overly susceptible to overheating of the bimetal element in the float
> bowl), I'm trying to think ahead and plan for overheating problems this
> spring.
>
> Short of ordering the item from Rimmer bros. in England, does anyone have
> a
> source or a shadetree-mechanic replacement for the "Heat Shield" that
> deflects heat from the header away from the carb float bowls?
>
> Any other ideas on how to reduce vapor-lock?
>
> Any suggestions, as always, are greatly appreciated.
>
> Terry L. Thompson
> '76 Spit 1500
> Maryland
>
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