OK so I go out running at lunchtime and ones mind comes up with the craziest
ideas when work empties out of your head.
But, take the piston out the carb, fill with oil. partially blow up a balloon
and slip the neck of the balloon over the top so that the air pressure forces
the oil out wherever it is leaking from!
Alan
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Simmons, Reid W reid.w.simmons@intel.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:57:19 -0700
Subject: RE: Damper Oil
Yeah, I use the same stuff I put in the crankcase. I've heard Marvel
Mystery Oil is OK too (why is it called that anyway?). However, no matter
what I put into the damper it is always gone by the next weekend, and yes, I
did replace the 'O' ring on the needle adjuster.
Reid
'79 Spitfire (original owner)
-----Original Message-----
From: alemen@pop.ftconnect.com [mailto:alemen@pop.ftconnect.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 10:26 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: loss of power and poping
Tim, I always have put teh standard engine oil in teh dampers. This was what
the garage always recommended when I had Triumphs in the UK. Also it is what
is listed in the manuals. It always has worked fine for me, so when I got
the current car that's what I have and it's no problem. Most of the cars I
looked at never had any oil in the dampers and the owners nver new to fill
them. It's one of the first things I always checked. It showed if the PO's
knew anything about the car or not.
Also a thought about the Colourtune, did you do both pairs of cylinders?
Alan.
Original Message:
-----------------
From: T. .R. Dafforn td214@cam.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 11:23:37 +0100
Subject: Re: loss of power and poping
Richard,
Thanks for all the suggestions, I was just coming to the conclusion that
maybe I
should get the car tuned properly. The only trouble being finding a mechanic
I can
trust, and who can still remember how to tune twin SUs. I have only recently
installed a fuel filter after a long lay up due to restoration, it could be
that
it has pciked up rubish (ie dust from the kilos of bondo I gound out). Fuel
pump
is new (100 miles) so that should be OK. I agree that fuel blockage should
produce
later sputtering. I ave put standard engine oil in the carb dampers, would
that be
a problem? I did this for many years in an old rover metro which had a
single SU
and it was fine... The strange thing is the fact that it seems to happen as
the
car gets hotter, so perhaps a vapor lock?
As to the temperature guage I'll try a thermometer, but where do you put it?
Thanks for the help
Cheers
Tim
Richard B Gosling wrote:
> Tim,
>
> Two thoughts occur about this - tuning or fuel starvation. If you've
tuned it
> using a Color Tune then tuning should be OK - I've never actually used
one of
> these, so I don't know how good they are. What I do know, after a fair
few
> attempts at tuning myself using the
> push-up-the-lifting-pin-and-seeing-what-happens-to-the-engine-note
method, is
> that I am no good at it at all, and now tuning is one of the (very) few
things
> I leave to a professional who does know what they are doing!
>
> The other thought is fuel starvation. Have you checked your fuel filter
(in
> the top of the pump on the LH of the engine) - could be blocked? Also,
does
> this happen particularly when you are low on fuel - you could be picking
up
> crud in the tank and that could be causing a blockage - my wifes Panda
used to
> do that if the fuel ever dropped below 1/4 level. If neither of these
are
> correct, then it could stil be a blockage, but it could be something
lodged in
> the system somewhere - this may require dismantling and cleaning out
parts of
> the system, which sounds like a hassle!
>
> Although, thinking about it, a fuel filter blockage shouldn't cause a
problem
> until after several seconds of sustained acceleration, unless it is a
very bad
> blockage - after all, the carbs have their own little float tanks, so
until
> those are empty there will still be fuel for the carbs. Very small
particles
> from the tank, that pass through the filter, and then block the carbs may
be
> more likely. I'm not going to go into this any further, as carbs remain
> beyond my comprehension, I still don't really understand what goes on in
> there!
>
> As for the funny coolant temps, have you checked your voltage regulator?
> Admittedly, when these go, you usually get a high reading not a low one
(I
> spent a couple of months fighting what I thought was an overheating
problem
> until I replaced the regulator), but it might still be this. If it is,
your
> fuel guage will be funny too - does it read full when the tank is full?
If
> not, then it is almost certainly a regulator problem.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Richard and Daffy
--
Tim Dafforn
Structural Medicine
Department of Haematology
CIMR
University of Cambridge
Wellcome-MRC Building (Level6)
Hills Road
Cambridge
CB2 2XY
Tel. (01223) 336829
Fax. (01223) 336827
http://smokeroom.cimr.cam.ac.uk/
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