John,
I can't see any obvious clues in anything you have done - if the engine is
turning over then it hasn't siezed due to overheating, sitting out in the rain
has never done Daffy any harm, so that shouldn't be a problem. I am assuming
here that the engine is turning over, but you are not even getting a hint of a
firing. Therefore, it's the same approach as any non-starter -
First check you are not out of fuel. Failing that -
Always suspect the electrics first, since it is usually their fault. First
spray the distributor, coil, plugs and HT leads with WD-40 - don't disassemble
anything, just spray the outside - this will often drive out the moisture that
is causing a weak spark. Try to start. If this fails, take the cap of the
distributor and give the inside a good wipe with a dry cloth, and also the
rotor arm, in case there is still some moisture there. Try again.
Next, check to see if you really do have a spark. Remove a spark plug, replace
it in its HT lead, and hold it against a good earth (the alternator casing is
easy). Now turn the engine over. This is a little tricky on your own unless
you are Mr. Tickle, but what should work is turning the ignition on, then
holding a screwdriver across the terminals on the solonoid (electrical thingy,
sits beside the battery, one lead to the battery the other to the starter).
Make sure the HT lead is dry where you are holding it, and/or you are wearing
gloves - if the HT lead decides to earth through you, it won't kill you, but
you'll sure jump! If you have got a spark, move on to worrying about fuel
supply, if you don't have a spark, find out why.
If you don't have a spark, try the other plugs - if one of them sparks then
your problem is either the HT lead or the spark plug you first tried, and they
must be replaced (having checked that they were properly connected). If
nothing sparks, your problem is elsewhere. Take your distributor cap off and
check it. If it is cracked, it will not work right (I don't know for sure
why, but my guess would be water trapped in the crack conducts the electricity
away). Also check for lines of scorch marks, indicating that part of the
electical charge is earthing down that way. Also check that the little carbon
bit in the middle is properly sprung-loaded, so it will press against the top
of the rotor arm. Any faults - just replace it with a new one, they are
cheap.
Check your points gap. If you have never done this before, then it is unlikely
you have any feeler gauges, so checking the gap may prove tricky, but the
procedure is - take the distributor cap off. Rotate the engine slowly by hand
until the cam rider of the points is at the highest point of the cam. Using a
feeler gauge, check that the gap is correct (can't remember the value
off-hand, check your workshop manual). If you don't have a feeler gauge, then
there should be a very small, but clearly visible gap - this should be enough
to get your car started, if not running well. Spark timing should not have
seriously altered, since she was running well until the pipe blew, and again,
as long as it is close-ish she should start, even if not running well.
However, if you alter the points gap, you may well have affected the timing.
Rotate the engine by hand until it is before top dead centre for cylinder 1 or
4 (all done more easily with the plugs removed - you know which cylinder is at
TDC because the rotor arm is pointing to the contact on the cap that connects
to the plug lead for that cylinder). Use a circuit tester on the bit of the
points that is connected to the thin wire leading from the distributor to the
coil. Rotate the engine slowly forward, until the bulb lights. This is where
your points have opened. Now look at the pulley on the front of the
crankshaft - there is a small notch in it, that will align with a sort-of
saw-tooth looking thing , and that tells you how many degrees before TDC your
engine is. It should be at about 12 degrees (as far as I can remember).
OK, so you have now checked your points and your timing. The only remainining
bits to check of the electrics are the coil and the HT leads, and the best way
to check these is simply to replace them. Do keep an eye open for other
things too - such as broken wires, frayed wires that may be bared and are
earthing, just common-sense stuff.
Right, part 2, fuel. Having established that you do have a spark, and it is
approximately correctly timed, then the fault must be fuel-related. First
take the lid off one of the float chambers beside the carbs (being very
careful not to let any crud fall in!). It should be a bit over 1/2 full. If
not, either there is a leak between the float chamber and the carb, or the
fuel pump is not working. To check the fuel pump, unscrew it from the block,
take off the exit pipe, and operate the little lever by hand a couple of times
- fuel should come shooting out. If not, no fuel is reaching the pump, or the
pump is broken. Fuel may not be reaching the pump becuase you are out, or
becuase the pipes are blocked - if you have recently run the car to the last
few drops, you may have pulled some crud from the fuel tank into the fuel
lines and blocked something. The pump could not be working because the fuel
filter in it is blocked (just unscrew the top and you will find the filter, or
because the diaphragm in the pump is broken - again obvious when you pull the
top off.
OK, you have fuel in the float chambers. Then the problem must be it is not
getting to the engine correctly. I get a little hazy here, so input from
others would be appreciated! It is unlikely suddenly to have fallen so badly
out of tune that it won't start. Fuel passages could be blocked - not sure
how you would test for that, or remedy. Hmm, I'm starting to run dry of ideas
at this stage....
Hopefully Saskia has started before you have got to this part of my message -
if not, you need someone other than me to help you!!
Good luck, Daffy sends her love to Saskia,
Richard and Daffy
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