spridgets
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Re: Can't remove old shock...

To: CMLove <cmlove@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Can't remove old shock...
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:41:14 -0700
Cc: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>, <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
In-reply-to: <35FAED08.A27B3DE7@exit109.com>
References: <35FAA60F.4E1FB508@hiwaay.net>
Reply-to: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Monty,
        Sorry I wasn't on line when you were struggling with the bolt. (I try to
be a M-F worker, at my SO's request).
        I assume the bolt giving you trouble was the one at non-armed side of 
the
shock (facing rear-ward on the car).I most humbly must disagree with Frank
C.'s diagnosis, that particular hole has a steel liner/sleeve (sorry
Frank). The other 2 are just in the zinc body. That hole needs to be
re-enforced because of the casting.  Frank is correct in the removal
technique. We get lots of "cores" in with the bolt still in the shock.
That's fine, we can deal with them on the bench. We also get some back
without a bolt OR a sleeve. That's a problem. We have developed a way to
thread in a repair steel sleeve but it is time consuming. The idea of
inserting the other 2 previously removed bolts is good. Or how about prying
the shock up (it is loose?) and cutting the bolt from below the shock body?
You can apply some heat to the shock body.... but not too long or it'll
melt..honest. The 3 items that cause us the most distress with front
Spridget shock cores is 1) this bolt/sleeve thing. If the sleeve isn't
tight the shock will leak from around the sleeve!  2) Loose arm on the
shaft. You should never have to remove the arm from the shaft or even
loosen the big cottered nut. We see a lot of loose arms and it is expensive
to fix. Welding the arm tight is NOT recommended and is fraught with
danger. 3) Broken-off pinch bolt at the trunion. If it breaks DO NOT
attempt an easy-out. It probably will break and they can't be drilled-out
very well. Instead, cut through the pinch-bolt in the slit provided. 
        Hope this helps some.... sorry for the delay.
Cheers   Peter C
         
        


At 05:52 PM 9/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>CMLove wrote: stuck shock bolt
>
>Mony
>
>You can try hacksawing the head of the bolt off then heat the shock body
>with a torch, soak what's left of the bolt with liquid wrench and try to
>pull the shock over the bolt.
>Tap the shock near the bolt a few times with a hammer (a big hammer)
>What happens id the aluminum shock corodes to the steel bolt.
>I'm sure some of those chemical engineers have the correct term for the
>aluminum/steel fusion, but that's what happens. 
>Use Neverseize on replacement of the bolts so it will not happen in the
>future.
>
>good luck
>
>-- 
>Frank Clarici

Peter Caldwell
1 very rough Innocenti
(the Sprite with an accent)
among other LBCs and 4WDBCs


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