I used to run a 970S in an Autocrosser Mini-Marcos. The DPO had fitted
a run of tube from the heater take-off, to a heater element, sitting on the
front apron. Most in-elegant! So the DCO removed this appendage. I
then went to a an "el cheepo", (that's a relative term) rolling road for
set up purposes. That shop weakened off the 45DCOE a lot, as the DPO
had it running real rich. To be fair, it had been difficult to start. After
work, it seemed to start right handy, and revs were up, and a night-time
test run on a deserted public road, with no lights (Rem Autocross car)
scarrred the s**** out of me :-)).
Point of story: does anybody want to acquire < 3 only > 970S pistons/
polished con-rods etc, etc, Yup, I don't have a good number 4 anymore.
It seized during a race, and destroyed itself.
To this ex-autocrosser, it does seems a good idea to retain the cooling
effect of the heater take-off, when you run a stressed engine.
My .02 Euros worth.
Ron in Ireland
'59 Sprite "Oggibip"
At 06:48 03/06/99 EDT, Paul A Asgeirsson wrote:
>I've always thought that the story of hot pockets of coolant around #4
>cyl. with the heater valve shut off in the off position was an urban
>myth. How about someone drilling about a dozen holes in their block and
>put on a twelve point recorder so it can be defined as myth or not!
>Look at the thousands of cars that get run in the summer with the valve
>to off. Are they all failing because of that? I don't think so!
>On Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:24:23 -0500 Gregory_Schulz@mil-elect-tool.com
>>Being a bug-eye (vintage racer) owner for only a few short months, the
>>heater valve on the rear of the engine still mystifies me.
>>I currently have a special adapter fitted to the head at that position
>>sender for my VDO gauge installed there. I've heard stories about #4
>>and other stories about steam pockets forming if that valve is closed
>>off. I decided to put my temp sender there to see if I could pick up
>>With a 160 thermostat installed, and racing in mid-70 degree weather
>>on 5/22, my
>>temp gauge read 180-200 on the false grid (no fan!) but once I was out
>>at speed it went right down to 165-170 and stayed there. This
>>indicated to me
>>the rear section of my engine (water jacket around the #4 vacinity)
>>maybe too cool according to some paddock observers.
>>I had previously checked the calibration of my gauge prior to
>>sure it was reading correctly. So I'm either very lucky not to have a
>>problem in that area with my current set-up, or the problem is there
>>pick it up in that uppermost rear position for some reason.
>>Any thoughts appreciated, and TIA...
>>'58 Bug-eye (Vintage racer & street "legal")
>>shawn tobin <firstname.lastname@example.org> on 06/03/99 11:30:43 AM
>>Please respond to shawn tobin <email@example.com>
>>To: firstname.lastname@example.org, email@example.com
>>cc: firstname.lastname@example.org (bcc: Gregory Schulz/MED/IT/ATLAS
>>Subject: Re: Temperature Question 2
>>Perhaps this is a good time to remind us that the heater valve on the
>>of the head MUST be kept open and flowing either through the heater or
>>directly into the heater return hose. Elsewise #4 will likely run too
>Get secure free e-mail that you don't need Web access to use
>from Juno, the world's second largest online service.
>Download your free software at http://www.juno.com/getit.b.html.