>Victoria British and probably others sell a straight pipe that
>replaces the catalytic. It was used in one of the emission
>transition year periods and should fit without modification
>as a replacement....
The earlier pipe does fit, but you need to replace the flat gasket used
in the cat to manifold connection with the donut type. The VB catalog
used to mention the interchangeability along with the usual warning about
modifying the exhaust and emissions. A universal cat could probably be
installed in the downstream portion of the exhaust, but I have no
experience with that subject.
If you replace the pipe, do it with the car raised as high as you can get
it on both ends, and remove the carb, air cleaner, and the related
accessories before beginning. You'll have much more room. If you take
the right-hand wheel off first, you'll have a bit more
room (remove the shock, too, and you'll have all the room you need, but
then you'd need to replace the upper trunnion bushings, and that starts a
chain reaction of biblical proportions.....). Don't ask how I know.
>You're right about the carb - pure hell to R/R. The fuel pump is not
>much better.
The only thing I had a problem with was the lower nut. It can be turned
maybe one flat at a time, which made it a pain to take off or put on.
The trick, I think, is to do it last when removing the carb, and first
when replacing it. That way you can pull the carb forward to give you as
much room as possible (take up the slack between the nut and the flange).
As for the fuel pump.... Well, I removed mine with the engine, and
replaced it before the engine went back in, and getting those *(&@##
little nuts started is a pain.... I worked on it once since then, with
the old solenoid, etc, still in the way. The pump died, and I replaced
it with an electric pump and a pressure regulator. The pump is still
attached to the block, sans lines. The solenoid died since then and was
replaced with a Motorcraft style remote solenoid. I changed the mounting
position somewhat, and this freed up some room around the pump.
I think that now all I would need to do is lay the distributor cap to one
side and remove the vent hose to the heater. It would still be tight,
but considerably easier. It's a moot point because I am not reinstalling
a mechanical pump. A while back, one of the list members, Bill Miller,
offered to make block-plates for the 1500's, and was kind enough to send
me a couple. When I finally get around to finishing off the front end
rebuild, I plan to install the new plate to clean things up a bit more.
>Surely they put them on BEFORE they installed the engine at
>the factory. Otherwise the assembly line would be a pretty ugly place
at
>the carb-in station....bruised knuckles, dropped fasteners, and cursing
>mechanics (at least that's the way I reacted when I put the ZS back on).
Yep. I like to practice swearing before I pick up a wrench. Saves time.
Rich
Council Bluffs, Iowa
'74.5 RB MGB "Miss Maggie"
'78 Chevy Half-Ton "Waltzin' Matilda" (LBC Support Vehicle)
'79 Midget "Miss Molly"
richard.arnold@juno.com or rdarnold@neonramp.com
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