Larry,
I have a number for a Redi-Sleeve from National Oil seal of 99174. I'm not
positive, but I think the number that WST gave would be OK too. I know
that the other number 99174 is correct for stock. You should be able to
find it locally, at least I can in SF.
Gerard
At 6:57 PM -0700 10/2/99, Larry & Sandi Miller wrote:
>WST
>
>Thanks for the info. Would the Speedi-Sleeve number CR 99172 also be
>correct when using a stock hub? I've developed an oil leak down the back
>side of the backing plate after about 1500 miles on new seals. I'm assuming
>that when I tear it down I will discover that the axle is the problem and
>will have to sleeve it.
>
>Larry Miller
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>
>To: Thickos <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
>vintage race list <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 4:59 PM
>Subject: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
>
>
>> To all,
>>
>> The Red Rat Bastard #99 was the "test mule" for what turned out to be a
>> great solution for the age old Sprite leaking double bearing hub
>situation.
>>
>> The solution? Pretty simple really. First off, the outer bearing is
>replaced
>> with a sealed bearing. There are two styles available, a steel sided, and
>a
>> rubber sided. You want the rubber sided bearing. These are sealed for life
>> and suitable for high speed applications. The inner bearing is hand
>packed
>> in hi-speed synthetic grease, and the inner seal rides on a Speedi-Sleeve.
>>
>> So, the oil in the axle tube sloshes out to the axle cap under cornering,
>> bounces off the cap, hits the sealed bearing, and can go no further. The
>> bearing packed in synthetic grease seems to motor quite happily.
>>
>> Initial tests of this setup, using a double lip seal at Road America,
>> revealed some minor seepage of grease past the seal. It turns out the
>double
>> lip seal is about 6 thousandths smaller than the single lip seal... so the
>> seal basically fell out of the double bearing hub. I have "peened" the
>> inside of my hubs where the seal rides, and with the addition of the
>proper
>> Loctite, it should stay put. But, since it's not seeing any oil, only
>> grease, I suggest using the single lip seal because of it's larger OD. You
>> should still glue them in.
>>
>> A word of caution... when you bend the washer behind the axle nut over the
>> nut, be sure not to damage the rubber on the sealed bearing face.
>>
>> The Speedi-Sleeve may be a different one than you're used to seeing, but
>> there's reason for that. It rides all the way in on the axle stub, so that
>> the only thing riding on it is the seal, not the inner bearing. The double
>> bearing hubs inner bearing won't fit over the sleeve. When installing the
>> Speedi-Sleeve, make sure you dress the existing axle stub surface with
>> emery cloth. Also, take the installation tool that comes with it and throw
>> it away. Find a suitable piece of tailpipe, with the correct ID, and
>gently
>> tap the Speedi-Sleeve into place... all the way to the backing plate area.
>> The lip on the sleeve can stay in place, if it's seated against the back.
>>
>> Another thing, take the paper axle gaskets and the O ring, and toss them
>out
>> too. I have used the "Secret Schmoo" method successfully for about 7 years
>> of hard racing, and never had any leak from the axle caps. I am running
>> stock later model axles, not the overpriced "comp" axles being sold these
>> days.... more on this subject later. If you are running the comp axles,
>you
>> most likely have seepage from the splines. Careful assembley with a
>gasket,
>> some schmoo, and washer should slow the flow. This works absolutely fine
>on
>> stock hubs as well. Use Brakeclean on the hub surface and the axle cap.
>Use
>> a razor blade if necessary to scrape the axle cap clean. Use RTV sealant,
>> (blue, black, copper... doesn't seem to matter) applied to the inner
>surface
>> of the axle cap. No gasket, no O ring. Install the axle. Use the counter
>> sunk screws (available from Winner's Circle) with the allen head rather
>than
>> slotted or Phillips. The reason is that the first one that goes on with
>the
>> axle, the short one, can be tightened again after the drum and remaining
>two
>> screws are in place. It doesn't hurt to install and torque the wheels
>right
>> away, as it makes sure everything that's being glued together is snug.
>>
>> Also, remember the "driver's side" (on a left hand steering Sprite) axle
>nut
>> is "reverse thread".
>>
>> The parts list is as follows...
>>
>> Sealed bearing SKF 6207-2RS1/C3HT51 available from Berry bearing.
>> or MRC 207-SZZ/H501 available from Winner's
>> Circle
>> There is a bearing available from NAPA that can be cross refenced to the
>> numbers above. I paid about $24-$26 from BB or WC, and about $32 from
>Napa.
>>
>> The inner bearing is the one that came with the hub, just packed in
>grease.
>>
>> The Speedi-Sleeve number is Chicago Rawhide CR 99172
>>
>> The single lip seal is Chicago Rawhide CR 17695
>> This is also available through NAPA
>>
>> You mileage may vary, objects in the mirror may be closer than they
>appear,
>> I didn't know she was 16...
>>
>> WST
>> Flounder
>> Team Thicko
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
G G Gerard Chateauvieux
E A
R R pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
A A
R G Pixelsmith on Duty
D E
S http://www.gerardsgarage.com
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