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Painting parts

To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Painting parts
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:56:02 -0500charset="iso-8859-1"
References: <001801bf608d$8da02080$3591480c@default> <38827A2A.DF04850A@exit109.com> <3882A2B6.E36591A8@lucent.com>
Hi, Bill -
Although this method doesn't produce a concours part, if you are more concerned
with protection of a part from further rusting, reasonable (i.e, glossy and
pretty, but not concours) appearance, and very durable finish, then here is what
I do and it works very well.  I have done this even on Rostyle wheels and
suspension parts with no further signs of rusting after three years and 20,000
miles on my Midget.

I use Plastikote engine enamel in spray cans, usually apply three coats, and
bake each coat for an hour at 300 degrees in the kitchen oven (I have a VERY
understanding wife!).  Most of the parts I bake are either black (Universal
Black #203) or silver (Aluminum #207), but other colors are available.  The
smell can be minimized by letting the parts air dry as long as possible, and
keeping any exhaust fans going while baking.

After removing as much rust as you can (by sanding, wire brushing by hand or
rotary wheel in a drill motor, soaking smaller parts in metal prep until all
rust is gone), treat with a metal prep solution (phosphoric acid, available at
most auto parts houses), then wipe down well with 3M grease/wax/adhesive remover
(I get mine at the local body shop supply house), following the instructions on
the container.  If you're really AR, then you can also wipe with Windex and dry
before painting.  Blow or tack off any lint just before painting.  I use rubber
gloves while handling the parts so as not to get any body oils on the cleaned
surfaces.

I made up some wire hangers for baking smaller parts in the oven.  I have also
found that baking other enamels than engine paint makes them tougher and more
durable, and any original paint left on the part doesn't seem to be harmed at
300 deg F.

So far, I have not used an etching primer.  The Plastikote engine paint is
self-priming.

Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
'73 Midget GAN5UD126009G  "OO NINE"
"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt"  -- Mark Twain

----- Original Message -----
From William M. Gilroy <wmgilroy at lucent.com>
To: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Cc: David Ramsey <dwramsey@worldnet.att.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: bug-i jack wrench on e-bay (Now painting parts)


>
>
> I do have some questions about painting things on my car.  I will use the
> correct colors if you guys answer some questions.   If you are painting
> parts and you get all rust off but have left some of the original paint
> on, what is the best  way to paint the part.  What is self etching
> primer?  Should I use one? What is the best stuff to get any oil
> or grease off before I paint?  What type of paint do you favor?
> If I paint something I would like it to last being the LSOS that I
> am.  When recommending stuff remember I don't have a compressor.  Thanks.
>
> Bill Gilroy
> 77 Midget
> 90 Shar-Pei


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