Steve,
You'll need to pull the axle to replace the gasket and O-ring. Make sure
there is an O-ring in there and examine to see if the O-ring is flattened
or hard. I use Copper Permatex gasket sealer on both sides of the paper
gasket and have never had a leak afterwards. I've done at least 6 hubs this
way. Make sure you use a de-greaser on all contact surfaces, and that all
traces of the previous gasket as well as any burrs are removed before
re-assembling. Tighten things up, but let the gasket sealer set up before
you torque everything down. That way you don't squeeze out all the sealer
out while it's still liquid. I believe this makes for a better seal. Check
the tube for set-up time.
Even if you're screws came loose, the lug nuts should be holding everything
together snugly. I'm not sure how the screw for the axle could come loose
since the drum sits over it.
Gerard
At 12:11 AM -0600 12/15/00, Steven Fooshee wrote:
> I can't find any of my literature (just moved) and I can't recall
>if the diff
>requires other than normal fluid. I've got good ol' 80W-90 Castrol and
>that was
>going to have gone in it, had the fill plug not been star-torqued on! Is
>there a
>tool that fits this roughly 1/2" square plug?
> The spooky thing which began this little charade, I found the left
>rear wheel
>in a puddle of oil last week. I ventured off to the parts store today and
>bought
>an axle seal and took the wheel off. I found the 4 nuts that hold the drum on
>and the screw which holds the axle shaft in to be loose. The seal hadn't
>failed,
>the oil was coming out through the hub! I've never pulled the axles out, and
>it's been a year since I replaced the rear wheel cylinders so I can't imagine
>how these got to be loose. I can't see how the seal would hold for a year,
>a two
>hour drive here, and a week of tooling around here.
>--
>~
>'90 GS-500E: Saki.
>MCMLXIX Sprite: Gin & Tonic.
>'87 RX-7 TII: Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster.
>Steven Fooshee: Suddenly thirsty.
>~
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