hmmmm, posibilities abound!!! posibilitiy of a cam that is not properly
indexed? it happens from time to time that a key way is improperly cut and
the cam is off just enough to make some wierd problems.
posibility of a improperly degreed advance curve in the distributor?
screwdw up advance weights not returning to proper starting position?
me thinks you might have a naughty distributor .
time to tear down and reassemble a distributor?
HEY!!!! how about you try one of the distributors from the cars that start
right up from sitting cold??????? if that does not fix it, then take a
look at cam timing? line up timingmark at t.d.c. and remove valve cover and
check out where the valves are at in their relation to which are closed and
which are open? and check indexing of dist at that point.
compression test? , any signs of plug fouling after 10 min of cranking?
plugs should be soaked from that kind of battery draining cranking. does
this happen with su's on it? possibilities of too large venturi's in the
weber, causing a poor vaccume signal(through venturi) keeping fuel in float
bowl and not drawing into cylinders and vaporising???? remember fuel will
not vaporise as well in "cold " weather as it does in warm weather.
hey man i'm just tossing you a bunch of theory on trouble shooting. see if
anything works? if it does? way cool ! far out and funky! but if none of
the above works? we all know what the delete button is
for.......................................... long distance remedies are
tough.
my best shot at ideas on short notice?
good luck frank!
chuck.
----- Original Message -----
From Frank Clarici <spritenut at Exit109.com>
To: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 1:12 AM
Subject: Kids, Cars, and a no start LBC
> Gang
>
> Can someone please explain to me WHY my daughters A40 just refuses to
> start when it's cold?
>
> This Fall she did buy her own Mitchibitchi but already sold it because
> she learned herself that Jap cars .... oh never mind, but atleast she
> learned a lesson. Now she is back in the drivers seat of the A40, for
> any new listers it is basically a Sprite with an Italian styled body but
> made in England by BMC. 1275 engine rear wheel drive.
> It just never starts when it's cold.
> I removed the ballist resistor coil so it has a regular coil now. I
> thought this was my problem last year. Apparently not. I have replaced
> the starter since last year, the timing is where I think the trouble
> lies because if zI retard the timing it starts but it pops and sputters
> when driving because the timing is too far retaded. Once it fires up I
> have to advance it so it runs properly.
> I have replaced the dizzy, the valves are adjusted fine, the battery is
> new and the alternator shows 14+ volts on the volt gauge.
> This is driving me and my daughter nuts.
> This morning I had to jump start it with a Sprite, now the Sprite was
> sitting next to it and just as cold but it fired right up. Just for
> laughs, I fired up all 3 Sprites and no problems with any of them just
> the A40. I went thru this all last winter. I have even cut the wire to
> the radio memory and rewired the power windows thru the ignition so
> there is nothing on over night.
> The Starter just weezes out just before it kicks every time, it does
> this for 10 minutes and then the battery is dead. If I retard the dizzy,
> it starts but then I have to advance it so it runs decent. This should
> not be.
> What the heck is wrong? Too much compression maybe? It is a stock 12cc
> high compression engine with new rings and bearings, no rebore, no head
> skim.
> Carburation is a 40 DCOE Weber, never any problems with it and it has a
> cold start hooked up.
> I am open for suggestions.
> --
>
> Happy Healeydays
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> Too Many Sprites Again
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