The backing plates can be cleaned up and painted on or off the car. Doing
it on the car just requires a good degreasing front and back (after you've
removed all the brake shoes). I place a plastic wash basin under the
backing plate to catch all the mess. A six inch wire wheel on a drill
should take care of any further clean up you need. Clean any bare metal
with some phosphoric acid on a brush and the wipe everything you plan to
paint with a degreaser. You can clean up the hub and paint that them if you
Otherwise, you will need to pull the brakes, axles, hubs, and wheel
cylinders. You will need a puller of some sort to remove the hub. Drain
some oil from the rear housing or be prepared for some oil to drip out at
least one side when you pull the axles. You should replace the rear seals
and you'll need new gaskets and O-rings while you have things apart too.
Replace parts, especially axles from the same side you removed them.
At 2:20 PM -0700 2/20/02, Dave Hiley wrote:
>I have to replace both rear wheel cylinders and thought while I was at it I
>would clean up and repaint the backing plates. In order to get them off I
>have to remove the rear hubs which is something I haven't done before and
>the Haynes manual doesn't give much detail. I don't particularly want to
>open a can of worms that I will regret later. After all, the backing plate
>cleanup is purely cosmetic.
>Do I need a hub puller to get the hub off?
>Does the large nut have to be torqued when replaced? I can't find a torque
>Should the seal and/or bearing be automatically be replaced if I remove the
>hub? I have had no issues with either component.
>Also....I put a new diff in last summer and used only a paper gasket which
>soon leaked. I have taken it out again and plan to use some of the
>silicone (??) gasket material that I used on my engine re-build to seal it
>up. Is there anything I should be aware of?
>72 Midget MKIII
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