....and I will...
Notice where the bypass hose comes from (the head) and where it goes (to
the water pump) without benefit of going
into the rad. for cooling. (Your heater outlet hose does the same
thing!! Not
good for cooling!!:)
Why is it there in the first place? To provide some water circulation
while
the engine warms up until the thermostadt
opens....same in case the stadt. malfunctions in the closed position.
So, for better cooling, you want to "block"
(with an appropriate sized ball bearing or
metal "slug") the bypass hose. And next
time you get a waterpump, get one of the
those without a water "bypass".
In place of the water "bypass", you want
a safety bypass in case the stadt malfunctions in the closed position.
So
drill a 1/4" hole in the stadt "plate". If
you are feeling insecure, drill 2x 1/4" holes!
You can also reroute the heater return
hose to the thermostadt fitting, of course.
Block off it's normal entrance back to the
water pump with an appropriate size bolt
in the appropriate hose where the return
line normally goes. Get rid of the brass
tube in this particular respect but don't
toss it...cut off about two inches of it.
Get a new normal "downflow" lower hose
and retaining it's heater return line nipple,
cut the hose so it can be used between
the thermostadt housing and radiator as
an "upper" hose. Run a new heater return
hose cut to the appropriate length
by whatever route is easiest and
"securable" along it's length of travel
to it's "new" return nipple on
the "new" radiator upper hose.
Insert 2" brass/copper length you
previously cut into new heater return
hose line and it's new return nipple,
after placing appropriate clamps on each
of these. Tighten clamps.
Top off radiator, if necessary. Done!!
Pour beer and top yourself off. :)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
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