Eddie,
I agree with Gerard (New lifters with cam; I'd skip
the optional parts, but get the flywheel cleaned up at
least). For the oil galleries, drill out the plug at
the back of the block and thread in a pipe plug, 1/4
NPT or 3/8, I forget. For parts, buy what you can
from Peter C., then British Parts NW for the rest
(bpnorthwest.com, but call for inventory), they have a
ton of engine parts cheap, all good stuff (5+ years on
my Sprite without any problems, and I drive it like I
hate it). I used their D9 cam in the streetcar, $68,
similar to my SPVP4 on the racecar in performance
believe it or not; they have more streetable versions
as well.
> The minimum you need to do to the block is the
> following.
>
> Machine work minimum:
>
> tank block/clean out oil gallery
> Bore or .020 oversize
> grind or polish crank
> R&R cam bearing
> R&R freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs
> check deck and head for flatness.
> check/correct line bore (main bearings) with what
> you described last
> time, this is important.
> re-grind/check for straightness on cam, if you
> don't get a 266
> re-surface or replace lifters
> pin-fit pistons
> Check flywheel friction surface and ring gear.
>
> Optional:
>
> balance rotational mass.
> lighten flywheel
>
> Parts: Minimum
>
> new pistons and rings
> new cam, main and rod bearings
> new lower gasket set and head gasket
> freeze plugs
> oil gallery plugs
> oil pump, depending on condition of your old one.
> From what you
> describe of the engine, I suspect new will be in
> order.
> Timing chain and gears.
> Check your crank damper pulley. If the rubber is
> cracked, it needs replacing.
> clutch kit?
> new lifters if old ones are not resurfaced.
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