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Re: bearings

To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: bearings
From: john.dagostino@comcast.net
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 19:37:51 +0000
Ok, but I did find an easy way to time the engine, raise the car up about two 
feet, remove the oil pan, and the timing marks are now clearly visible.


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Paul Asgeirsson" <PAsgeirsson@worldnet.att.net> 

But, but, but, but!  How can you get the front main bearing cap off an "A" 
series engine  with the front pulley, timing chain cover, timing chain, and 
sprocket still on the engine?  That I'd really love to see!  Please take photos 
for me!

Paul A
----- Original Message ----- 
From: James Juhas 
To: Paul Asgeirsson 
Cc: john.dagostino@comcast.net ; spridgets@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: bearings


I was just thinking last night about former car repair adventures with my 
father, and we had at times replaced main bearings with no serious engine 
disassembly.  This is a lost art, I believe, because so few cars in later years 
will allow pan removal without engine removal.

This is not the best fix, however, and will only forestall the eventual 
rebuild, but for the adventurous, it's worth a try.  And it's cheap.

You would want to know first whether the crank has ever been ground, in order 
to know what bearing size to use.  But if unknown, you must start with standard.

The technique uses a dowel in the oil hole of the crank surface, protruding up 
just enough so as to catch the edge of the bearing.  Going the appropriate 
direction, it will rotate the bearing around and out.  Probably want to loosen 
the other two when doing this, and spark plugs out, etc.

New bearings install the reverse of disassembly.

Plastigage is then used to determine what you did for clearance.  Of course, I 
would begin with a plastigage check before doing anything before you condemn 
the bearings.

Plastigage will tell you right away if the crank was ground undersize by some 
PO.

Also, we used to put steel shims under stock and/or worn bearings to adjust for 
the wear.  Really cheap.

Paul Asgeirsson wrote:

Hi John,

In order to ease your pain of replacing the engine bearings, I have but 3
words. Pull the engine!

Paul A

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <john.dagostino@comcast.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 6:41 AM
Subject: bearings


  
Hi.
Spring will be here soon, so I figured I better look into the low oil
    
pressure problem on the Sprite. Yesterday I removed the pan to examine the
bearings. I found the oil pickup tube was loose where it screwed into the
block, probably not good. Lots of gook in the pan too, no big pieces
though...
  
The center main bearing wasn't too bad, just starting to wear through, the
    
journal looks fine too, no scoring.
  
So, can anyone offer any tips on replacing the bearings in-situ? Can the
    
thrust bearings be done also?
  
I guess they are standard bearings, since there are no markings other than
    
AEG 158 on them. It's a 1968(1275).
  
Thanks,
John




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