Bud, ya goofy bastard... that solution makes no sense to me. Why mess with
the nice machined surface of the wedge? Welding the edge of the shoe is
simple, can be ground to fit, ain't gonna break loose, and solves the issue
for $0. Taking the shoes off and on is about 15 seconds of work.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bud Pazur [mailto:bpazur@excel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 10:07 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Weird Rear Brake Problem
OK gang -
Thanks for all your replies, but here is what I've decided to do.
First of all, welding the bottom edge of the shoe doesn't appeal to me. I
measured the slop in the wedges last night. To make the wedges contact both
the shoe edges and the tip of the adjuster screw, I need wedges that are
0.20" longer on one side, and 0.30" longer on the other. (I know this sounds
crazy but its true). So I don't want to add that much to the tip of the
shoe. I am taking the wedges to the tool and die shop that my company uses
this PM, and have them weld those lengths to the screw contact side of the
wedges. They can then grind the welds to reproduce the current angles.
If they can't weld, I am just going to have them machine longer wedges.
Stand by for updates!
Also - this way I don't have to remove the shoes!
Bud Pazur
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