Frank Clarici <spritenut@comcast.net> wrote:
It is soap, plain old soap and the soap breaks the cohesion property of
the water. Sort of like filling a glass above the rim, add a drop of
soap and you can not fill it above the rim.
I never paid $7 for a 1/2 pint of soap though, I raid the dishwasher
soap. Those hotel size shampoos are perfect ;)
The boffins term is surfactant, which i seem to remember from chemistry
lectures is a contraction of surface-active-agent.
It modifies (reduces) surface tension.
it allows a more intimate contact between the coolant and the metal to be
cooled, improving heat transfer. Glycol is not as efficient at transferring
heat as is water, but some of you in cold climates will need it.
As far as hot climates go i think glycol is a bit like chasing your tail. If
your boiling over, there is an issue other than the liquid in the system.
I find a small squirt of dishwashing liquid is good. Small being the
operative word. We're not after suds.
And that is HAND dishwashing liquid. Machine detergents are usually quite
caustic which is not friendly to aluminium (water pump).
If you have been running water straight from the tap, without boiling first,
and you live in a "hard water" area you may have a considerable amount of
Calcium or Magnesium scale on the heat transfer surfaces which reduces the
heat transfer efficiency. A flush with an acid salt product can dissolve these
( i think the acid is Sulphamic acid).
To determinine if you live in a hard water area...look inside your kettle.
Is it shiny and clean or does it have a white to grey crust in there?
I would not advise using only distilled water, as it is not "buffered" to
control pH
Add a corrosion inhibitor e.g. castrol RCI, at least. It will keep the water
in a friendly pH range. (between 8.5 - 9.5 is generally good for the mixed
metals in our engines)
Andy
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