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[Spridgets] wire wheel rear end conversion

To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spridgets] wire wheel rear end conversion
From: "Leo S" <60bugeye@cebridge.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 00:56:49 -0600
Got a few questions rguarding the wire wheel conversion and some other stuff
for my latest bugeye project.

Starting off, how often, if the rear end is properly serviced, and the seals
maintained, do rear axel bearings fail?  The bearings in the rear hubs I
pulled tonight feel as tight and smooth as the one new one I have in my spare
parts.  If this car is going to be used for a long trip (around 6k) would it
be wiser to install new rear bearings while the rear end is apart?  Hate
spending the dollars when it really isnt necessary but I also dont want a
bearing issue at the worst possible time.

Next, the rear drums on the wire wheel rear end were like new BUT on one of
them the lug hole bolts are slotted around 1/2 inch where as the other one
isnt.  Has anyone seen brake hubs lotted before?  It was obviosly machined
slotted and not elomgated from being loose.

Next, are the drums for a wire wheel the same as the ones off a non wire wheel
( I know the front calipers nd discs are differnt)?  Are the drums the same
across all the years of midgets and sprites? Also I take it that I have to use
the wire wheel hubs as the bolts to retain the hub screw in versus the studs
on a non wire wheel hub being pressed in from the backside of the hub??  Also.
the wire wheel axels are shorter than a non-wire wheel by around 3/8 of an
inch and does this lead to axel issues?  Is it worth the effort to removeing
the mounts off both axels and put the steel wheel mounts onto the wire wheel
housing?  (BTW... the wire wheel housing and donor car is a 67 midget and the
recipient car is a bugeye)  Also going to install the double acting rear wheel
cylinders and I know I have to move the back plates and associated hardware
along with correcting the length of the brake rods.  Anything else that needs
to be paid attention to in the changeover?  Will the difference in the width
of the housing make a difference in tire clearance (the WW housing is around 1
inch narrower than the steel wheel housing)?

Last, with a 1275 and datsun five speed would the 3.9 pumpkin be a better
combination than the stock 4.2 pumpkin from a bugeye?  Looking for good
highway performnce along with performance in the twisty's.

Now for a motor question.  I was told that a cam for a 1275 and the oil pump
for a 1275 will also work in a 948 and is a more roust setup versus the stock
948 pump and cam.  Any truth to it?  Especially in reguards to the oil pump
(although you do have to do a little clerncing on the pump housing so it will
fit the oil pump cover on the backplate)?  Is it that the 1275 pump is a
higher volume pump?  Also, will the cast steel rockers and pedastals from
1275 fit the 948 head?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Leo (keeper of Iris, the blue lady)

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