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Re: [Spridgets] Bearings Replacement

To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Bearings Replacement
From: <corvallis@peoplepc.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 07:35:22 -0800
Is the metal magnetic?  ...bill in corvallis
====================

-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bert Shirey
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 7:27 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] Bearings Replacement

Hi, Guys and Gals:

     I haven`t contributed to the list on line for a while, but would
welcome
some advice on rod bearing replacement. This is for my 65 Midget 1098 CC-
55,000 miles.

     Last oil change, I noticed a few sparkles in the drained oil. I cut
open
the filter and found some metallic debris. I haven`t dropped the pan yet
before I get my thoughts together, but I`m sure a bearing has failed.

     The engine is smooth and quiet and good oil pressure. 60+ warm at
highway, 25-35 hot idle. The car isn`t run much, so the oil is changed about
twice a year, this filter about 800 miles. I hope whatever happened may have
only recently occurred, maybe due to an excessive fast idle malfunction on
cold start that I neglected. Then, I`ve also heard that 50K miles on
bearings
is about the limit.

      I`ve had the car from new, done all maintenance myself, but not
bearings
before. Live and learn. Plenty questions, but here`s a start.

     What is a source for good quality bearings ? I don`t want to end up
doing
the job twice because of cheap parts that don`t fit and can`t last.

      Will standard size bearings be adequate or will I routinely need
undersize?

      Although I hear that big end rod bearings are the first to give up, is
it possible to remove the crank bearings for inspection without pulling the
engine?

     As a kid, 50 years ago,  I worked at a garage and remember the
mechanics
had some way of doing the crank bearings in the car, even grind the crank in
place. Unfortunately, I didn`t pay attention.

     Should I place sealer on the flange side of the front and rear U seals
or
put them in dry?

     With all those little bolts, I expect getting the pan back in place
without the two-piece gasket moving around is going to be tricky. Is there
some way of making this easier?

     Can I get enough debris out of the out of the motor without stripping
the
oil pump as the manual says?

     The job appears to be pretty straight-forward; although I`ve found that
nothing ends up being easy, particularly the first time. Some of you racers
probably do this in your sleep.

     When the MG is working again, I`m planning to replace the Bugeye
bearings
just as a precaution. As I said, live and learn.

     Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers,


Bert Shirey
65 Midget MK II
60 Bugeye
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