Jim, and others who asked how to do it...
I used the chrome one-wire GM 63 amp unit from Sumit Racing.
I used the CAT (improved in '97??) alternator bracket.
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Mechanically speaking:
Had to enlarge holes in bracket to fit to heads
Put two medium thickness washers between head and bracket
at each bolt to make belt alignment correct.
Made a spacer to go inside bracket between alternator (it is obvious
when you try to bolt up alt and bracket) out of a hex outside
threaded coupler from the hardware store, a stack of washers
or whatever will work here, use your imagination... Had to
get a smaller (3/8 I think) bolt because the hole in the GM
alternator wouldn't take the supplied bolt from CAT.
Bought a shorter V-belt (Goodyear 15475)
Had to bend/shape the dip-stick tube a little. I needs to pass
between the inside of the bracket and the top of the alternator.
I'm no mechanical engineer (I'm an electrical engineer!) but
this bracket appears to me to be plenty stout (someone told
me it wasn't good enough for off-road racing... good thing I
don't do that! I'll let you all know if it breaks)
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Electrically speaking:
Battery was disconnected before anything!! DON"T FORGET IT.
Wires removed from generator were all taped over and taped back
to the wiring harness, not needed anymore.
Two #10 wires were run from alternator to starter solenoid battery
connection. One #10 is just under rated... and the max PEP Boys
had was number #10... #10 terminal lugs were crimped/soldered/
heatshrinked on these wires so they bolt down properly. It figures
I would use two wires to hook up a one-wire alternator..duh!
I put a 70amp fuse in line with the above wires.
I removed the old regulator and its mounting plate(MKI).
The two brown wires that were on the "B" terminal were screwed
together and taped over. (there are really three wires but only
two terminal lugs)
The other wires from the old regulator were taped over(individually)
and taped out of the way.
The only problem with this one-wire stuff is that there isn't a
wire for the (no-charge) warning light. To see if the new system
is really working, you need to plug your voltmeter into the
cigarette lighter or somewhere and see if the voltage goes up
when you turn the motor on (from about 12.6volts engine off,
about 14+volts when charging). Instead of the ampmeter on the
dash (which we just disconnected hopefully.. and if you have
one with strange non-stock wiring, the above directions may
not apply) you really need a voltmeter. I am going to design
a circuit to re-activate the light, let me know if you need info.
Also, in the step where we screwed the brown wires together
at the old regulator: this is the perfect place for a fuse to
protect the lighting system, just put a fuse in the middle,
instead of screwing the wires together. I'll do this as soon
as I can find a fuseholder with screw terminals. I can't
believe Lucas left the lights TOTALLY un-fused...duh.
The new alt/bracket is 11 pounds lighter and puts out
twice the power! Its amazing what 1965 technology does,
too bad they designed the Tiger in 1963/4...
I just drove it over the hot mountains to the STOA meeting and
it worked great.
Gary Winblad
PS Jim,
sorry we missed last week, maybe we can get together this
week, at least now I can show you the installation.
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