Just getting back on line, so at the end of this subject.Not sure if it has
been mentioned but there is a method of using needles or stick pins to mark
the tonneau cover post and the screw holes for the defroster vents----the
vents may not be a problem but in the past many have forgotten the studs and
used them to hold down the two outside defrost vents while they are actually
in a place designed to each side and indivisual of the vents. Hope this is of
help and understandable for 4 a.m.
Tony Lang (TtT)
On Thursday, November
14, 2013 3:28 AM, Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net> wrote:
On 11/13/2013 12:36
PM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
> Ok, so I have my old dash pad off, in a zillion
pieces, cracked all
> over the place. I see from both the metal onder it and
frm th epieced
> togethr old pad, tht it was glued down around the outer edge
about an
> 1 1/2 inchesd wide from one end to the other. And around the
vent
> openings. Contact cement of some sort was used but sparingly. Also
> under the dash behind the front metal facia, it was glued down. I
> seem
to remember that there was a short discussion on gluing the pad
> down. I
am going to put the new pad on like the old one was on.
Doc,
Denis beat me
with his response about drilling the four holes down where
the toneau studs
used to be. If you use a small drill (~#50) you can
use a sharpened welding
rod to push up from the bottom and puncture and
accurately locate the holes
that the new studs can be screwed into,
after the pad is glued in place.
Before you get to that, you could also
drill the top sheet for riv-nuts and
then use threaded studs in place of
the OEM sheetmetal style. They come with
longer studs and this makes
them more permanent (as if 50 years wasn't
permanent enough). I'd also
advise using small diameter stainless flat
washers between the bottom of
the studs and the vinyl cover. They spread the
depression at the studs
and reduce the tendency to crack the vinyl when
tightening the studs.
The riv-nuts also hold these threaded studs in better
alignment, and you
don't have to tighten them as much.
Centering the pad is
typically done to split the material on either end
at the windshield/seal
mounting fins. You can "adjust" the vent holes
and their mounting screw
holes, and the center windshield hole with an
Exact-o knife after the pad is
placed. As delivered, you may find
excess foam in the area that will be
under the windshield frame. You'll
want to remove this or you will be
fighting it when you replace your
windshield frame and seal. You will also
need a decent heat gun to warm
the vinyl at the ends and to wrap and bend it
under the lip of the dash
sheetmetal. I hope your dashboard is either
removed or is at least
dropped from it's normal location. If not, you'll be
fighting with it
to wrap and "place" the vinyl under the lip. I spend a lot
of time
"preparing" the dash-pad in a dry configuration, before gluing it
down.
It should pretty much drop into it's final location before your ready
to
glue it down. That's really the easy part.
--
Tom Hall
ModTiger
Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net
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