On Monday 23 Oct 1995 Phillip E. Barnes wrote:
>applause]. The problem that I most wanted to fix in the Rebuild From Hell
>was the trigger-like clutch. Well, it's not fixed. The clutch is stiff and
>releases/engages about 1/2" off the floor. All the parts are new in the
>hydraulics (rebuilt) as well as new clutch disc and pressure plate. There
>are no leaks apparent. What's wrong? Any help or suggestions would be
>greatly appreciated.
>Phil (permanent grin) Barnes '71 TR6 CC61193
Fri, 03 Nov 1995 Ken Streeter wrote
> >>>"Philip E. Barnes" said:
> > The clutch is stiff and
> > releases/engages about 1/2" off the floor. All the parts are new in the
> > hydraulics (rebuilt) as well as new clutch disc and pressure plate. There
> > are no leaks apparent. What's wrong?
> Um, that's the way my TR6 works too. I thought they were supposed to be like
> that.
>Umm, mine too. However, I did drive a low mileage TR6 about two months ago
>that was on the original clutch. It had a much softer clutch, that
>engaged/disengaged towards the top of the pedal travel, rather than down
>near the floor like mine...
I have been watching this thread develop and a lot of good suggestions have been
listed to correct the low clutch pedal engagement point. It doesn't appear that
Phil Barnes clutch problem has been corrected. If it has I would like to know
what fixed it for my own edification.
After a full frame off restoration on my 71 TR6 the clutch exibited the same
problems. Low clutch pedal engagement and in most cases (it was so bad) gear
clash. This was after a total restoration (almost) with a new Borg & Beck TRF
Clutch Kit.
After following most of what was suggested (hydraulic rebuilds, broken pin,
slave cylinders mispositioned and going through about a 1/2 gallon of brake
fluid bleeding the clutch) I determined that the problem was due to lost motion
in the clutch mechanical linkages(pedal,clutch housing pivots,etc).
Determined not to pull the Drivetrain again I came up with an adjustable clutch
push rod that was adapted from the TR4. I ordered the fork end from Victoria
British, when it arrived I purchased a 5/16" SAE bolt from our local hardware.
Get a couple different lengths, cut off the head and round the cut end to match
your original pushrod. Use a 5/16" SAE nut as a jam nut and you have a fully
adjustable TR6 Clutch.
This method of repair will adjust out any lost motion from your mechanical
linkage but its not a good substitute for a severely worn system. Its been in
operation since 91 and running on Dot 3 with no gear clash or any other
problems. I can set the engagement any place I want. You could also fabricate a
similar assy. using ordinary hardware and some modification to the original push
rod.
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fork end jam nut threaded bolt
Good Luck
Glenn
71 TR6
74 TR6
76 MGB
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