Derek and others,
The asking price you quoted ($2,000-4,000 US) sounds about right
depending on the degree of rust. These cars have a separate frame,
which distinguishes them from the contemporary Porsche 356 and MGB
families. So actually, IMHO (in my humble/honest opinion), rust is less of
a devil for the Triumphs, because if the frame is rotten then the body can
be refitted to a fresh frame, and if the body is rotten it can be replaced
either as a whole, or body panel by body panel. Interestingly, after
purchasing my car, and with the help of the triumphs list, I discovered
that, although it was originally a solid axle TR4A model (not IRS
independent rear suspension), the frame of my car was the earlier TR4
ladder type (pre CT23,000 or so). Therefore, I concluded that a previous
owner had restored a good TR4A body and its matching engine (with SU HS6
carbs, late intake manifold) on a solid but older frame. Incidently I have
found no rust on the body or rocker panels except for a little bit on
the firewall and engine compartment where battery acid had spilled. The
engine is running (odometer showing 75 K) but not rebuilt. I have also
heard good things about the bottom end of the TR4 engine, but with 100K
miles you should plan on at least a head/valve job and a carb rebuild
soon, and new pistons and cylinder liners are probably a good idea too. In
the past year since I bought it, (time and budget constraints have
contributed here), my car got new brake and clutch hydraulics, uprated and
complete suspension rebuilding, steering and driveshaft rebuilding, and
various trim and finishing components. During this winter, I'm planning to
complete rebuiliding the brakes and carbs, and installing a new clutch and
a completely rebuilt overdrive transmission. I hope to have the car on the
road by next spring for its shakedown, and then ready for a fun fun fun
summer of '97!
So far, I have 1 year and close to 10 Gs (grand) into the project,
and I am probably looking at several more thousand for the eventual engine
overhaul, and a fresh paint job within the next few years if I want to
get the car really buff. I only mention this because my car was
stored indoors for the better part of 20 years and is exceptionally
rust-free for a Triumph. Still, all of the rubber bushing in the
suspension and steering were deteriorated and need replacing for safety
reasons as did most of the associated hardware. So IMHO again, (and
here's the bottom line) if you foresee the need for lots of body work in
addition to the mechanicals, you are very likely to have to spend closer
to 20 G for a complete restoration and this is very likely to be
more than the car is worth to sell (at least at current prices).
It sounds like your car is in pretty good shape, but personally
speaking, I wouldn't give more than $5,000 unless you have a mechanic
check out the areas I mentioned above and find them A-OK. The car
would have to have been maintained quite well and stored indoors for this
to be the case. What's it going to be worth? Unlike 356s which can
fetch $25-50 G for restorations (my friend has a nice '59 cabriolet
insured for $40,000); in the case of TR4s, asking prices are in
the $15 G range for top quality restorations, or very low mileage
originals, and a perfect "works" rally car went for about $35,000 last
year. If I can be permitted a little speculation, given what Austin
Healey asking prices did over the last 10 years (skyrocket from the
TR range into the 356 range), it may not be that bad of an investment
to restore a TR if you plan to keep it and maintain it. In terms of
driveability, I'm already betting that the TR4A is going to clean the
collective clocks of the local vintage Porsche contingency (the 356 and
also a 1.8 liter 914 to contend with here)! HaHa HaHa HaHa HaHa
(diabolical laughter fades).
On more a realistic note, what I found in my year long search for
a restorable TR4 was alot of rusty frames and body panels that mean big
trouble and expense to repair. In particular, beware of the TR4A
independent rear suspension models, which can sometimes be big trouble.
The trailing arms of the IRS and the differential are both bolted to the
chassis, and there is often a major rust problem in these areas of the
chassis where the IRS and differential are attached. If there is
extensive rust there (take a hammer to it), I would not recommend
buying the car. The reason is that repair of this problem is both
expensive and is not always truly effective for the long-term (although
other opinions/experiences may differ). The same is true of body panel
rust which if extensive, can only be hidden by bondo and new paint
temporarily. RNS (Rust never sleeps)! But, a complete line of new
original spec body panels is available if you want to spend the money.
I trust this will help. Good luck and best wishes for the
Holidays.
Sincerely-Kevin
CT 74,666
Disclaimer: All opinions are my own and all comments or criticisms
are welcome.
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