Roger Bolick wrote:
> It does fit entirely inside the distributor, works with and without
> a ballast resistor, and greatly helps the starting and high end spark.
> The greatest advantage to the EI modules is being immune to the wobble
> of the cam shaft due to bushing wear, immune to cam wear, and immune to
> breaker plate pivot point wear. These are subtle problems that plague
> all the TR6's with more than 50k miles. Impossible to isolate with
> normal instruments, but cause a host of run-time erratic timing problems
> that prevent the engine from running properly.
Sounds good, exactly the things I want to avoid (problem-wise...)
> The kit you want is LU-166C, this has the clip on the cam-rider
> that allows for the variation of cam size problem we encountered.
> The factory recommends using the stock coil for most stock applications,
> the transistor switched design increases the efficiency of the coil for
> a hotter spark over the RPM range. Looking at BRIGHTNESS and CRISPNESS
> of the timing light at idle is a sure indicator. I run a 0.035 plug
> gap with the Ignitor installed. The 11 to 1 compression engine uses
> the Ignitor with Lucas Sport Coil.
Sounds even better...
> Now for the kicker:
> 1. I currently have a prototype unit for the Spitfire in test
> 2. I currently have a prototype unit for the GT6 in test
> 3. I have a case of TR6 Ignitors (LU-166C), $60 plus $3 shipping in US.
Sell those puppies, I say!
> Based on experience so far, I estimate 1 of 3 cars have ignition problems,
> wrong/weak coil, coil backwards, vacuum hooked up wrong, etc. If something
> else is fouled up, don't expect this to magically fix it!
I agree... Ignition is the first and best place to look for problems.
No magic needed. I'm currently undergoing body-off (frame-up or
out-of-mind) restoration, so this is for an engine soon to be started.
Meanwhile, another reply...
TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>Peter I recently purchased one for my Land Rover. I have not yet installed
>it. The unit consists of a black plastic collar with a magnet inside that
>replaces the rotor and a sealed black box that replaces the points. The
>only difference that you will see after the distributer cap is replaced is
>that instead of one wire going to the coil, there are two, one for each
>side of the coil.
Not a problem as far as I can see, maybe some black shrinktube to
conceal the extra wire...
>As far as I can tell the advantage is once you set your timing it will not
>go out like it does with points. Its immune to dirt, oil and moisture and
>switches twice the energy as point systems (From the ad on the side of the
>box). It looks rugged and well made.
>The directions do not say how to set up the timing. But it tells you how
>to troubleshoot it if you have problems with the installation.
Gotta find out about that static timing stuff.
Hat's off to Teriann & Roger
'64 Spit (almost ignited!)