Listers:
Here is the summary of what I received from the net on replacing the floors and
sills on my TR3A. I luckily still have the car on the wheels - don't have the
parts yet. I'm probably a month away from actually starting surgery (oops -
better avoid that DR - JD thread) I mean dismantling.
If anyone else has a $.02 to add, please feel free! PS Rob - still cant get
through to send this to personally - sorry.
Perry Hammock (getting more nervous all the time)
TR3A TS60999, (should be VERY nervous)
Perry,
I am part way through replacing the floor and inner/outer sills on my
60 TR3A. I decided to replace first, then have the tub sand blasted. I'm glad
I progressed in this way because when I got all the tar and rivets removed
there was very little left holding the two halves of the car together. There
was no way I could have lifted the body off without it folding up. I've got
one side done, plug and seam welding everything together with a Mig welder. I
bought my replacement panels from TRF. They were on sale in June. The floor
panel fit very well and came primed with all of the fixed nuts attached in the
proper cages. The inner sill required minor modification . I had to move the
front mounting "tab" forward one half inch to line up the mounting holes on the
frame. This was simple to do.
You need to remove the front fenders, and thus the front cowl and the
door. A major pain if the mounting nuts are rusted solid especially the bolt
at the bottom of the windshield frame. There is a little rubber grommet to
remove inside the footwell to get at this bolt. The door needs to go back on
for adjusting the fit of the outer sill .
Cut the outer sill out first to expose the welds to the inner sill at
the bottom of the A and B posts. The B post weld closest to the back of the
car is under the rear dogleg. There is no way to cut this weld out without
either removing the dogleg (and rear fender) , or cutting 6 inches off the
bottom of the rear dogleg . I cut off 6 inches as it
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