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Re:

To: Jeff Nathanson <jeffn@msystech.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re:
From: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 03:56:15 -0400
Organization: BRIT Inc
References: <199708170726.DAA27507@mail5.voicenet.com>
I'll answer what I know, based on my CD-150 in my Midget.

Jeff Nathanson wrote:
>         1) when the choke cable is pulled from inside the car, the choke
>         mechanism on the carb is forced to rotate clockwise.
>         2) This process should enrich the air/fuel mixture.

  It should open new "jets" for fuel to be sucked in. It also
raises the idle via the cam on the outside.

>         3) During a brief warm-up period, the knob of a good working cable
> can be rotated
>         so that the cable may be retained in the "choked" position so that
>         required manual dexterity (see note on dexterity below) can be
> minimized.

  On some cars. Old TR6s are supposed to have this, but all
bets are off if the cable was changed in their lives.

  My Midget has this, but it's not required at all, there
is no return spring. Strange, but it all works fine.

>         4) The RPM's of a warmed car are not supposed to increase when the
>         choke is enabled. (I was suprised when I heard this)

  Correct, EXCEPT that implies the throttle is not at idle. If
you are cruising along and the car is running right, more fuel
from the choke should not make you go faster, just a richer
mixture.

  BUT if your choke also has the cam that raises idle like
my CD-150, this obviously doesn't work at idle. 

>         6)The "resting" position of the choke mechanism is not that
> important.

  I prestrain mine a little to be sure. That way when my
choke knob is all the way in, it not only returns
the choke off, it actually puts a bit of compression
in the cable so it stays off.

  To do this, tighten the screw on the carb when the
knob in the car is out maybe 1/8th inch. Then you
can positively push the choke off.

  (Spring loaded TR6 chokes might make this impossible,
or might require something to hold the knob in the car
while doing this)

>                 a) leave no slack, that is, when you start pulling on the 
>choke
>                 cable, the choke mechanism should start to rotate 
>immedialtely.

  ...which basically goes against what I am saying, but
I don't see the problem. Unless you have problems that
you then can't open the choke as much as you want to.

  I wouldn't call it slack, it's under compression, the
cable bows a very bit right at the end where it's exposed
at the carb, and it keeps pressure on the choke to
hold it off.

-- 
Trevor Boicey
Ottawa, Canada
tboicey@brit.ca
http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/

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