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Re: U-joint horrors...help (Spitfire)

To: will_thane@email.msn.com
Subject: Re: U-joint horrors...help (Spitfire)
From: Bob Sykes <s1500@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 17:11:17 -0800
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Somewhat
References: <199712060935.CAA19724@triumph.cs.utah.edu>
On Fri, 5 Dec 1997 17:15:43 -0800 Will (the desperate!) wrote:
[...]
> plunk, grind grind grind, I was stuck.  Guess what...right side u-joint let
> go.  Chewed everything up, car wasn't moving.  So, I guess I have a
> weekend(?) project (luckily, there's a place just down the freeway from me
> that has the parts...and are open on Saturday!!!!!)
> 
> Could somebody guide me through this process please, I've got the manual,
> but it always help to have instructions from those that have fought the
> beast...this is my only driver and my workmates are going to be a tad bit
> upset if I can't get there on monday!!! :-)

What a great excuse for missing/being late for work.  Why didn't I think
of this before?  A British Car!!  Everyone knows they break down all the
time. ;-)  Seriously, Will, you may be in for a little more than a
weekend
job here. Since the UJ completely broke loose there are probably
complications.

Check the Yokes carefully.  A broken/cracked yoke can allow the UJ cup
to escape
causing the sudden and dramatic failure you experienced.  Hopefully if
one
has failed, it will be the "short" one that mates to the diff.  Beware
U-joint cups that press in too easily.

> One curious thing, the drum on the right side of the car was extremely hot,
> as if the brake had locked up.  My e-brake felt as if it were extremely
> tight when I tried to pull on it...What's going on here???

I would guess the extreme angle of unsupported axle is putting
additional
tension on you e-brake cable.  It's also possible that the e-brake
linkage/
lever underneath has been damaged by the flailing half-shaft.

The replacement of the UJs is fairly straightforward as per the manual.
I use a bench vise/ sockets to press them in/out of the yokes.  It
doesn't
hurt to have a "spare" in case you run into trouble (needle bearings)
while replacing them.  Depending on the brand you buy, you may need to
re-use the set-screw that blanks off the grease fitting hole (after you
have lubricated them) before yoke assembly.  They usually cannot remain
in place without fouling the yokes.

I recently found some UJs at the local Advance Auto that had the grease
fitting in the center of one of the cups.  (packaged as their PDQ brand)
This allows the grease fitting to remain, and easy in-situ lubrication.

Hope this helps
Bob (& '78 Spitfires with several new UJs)


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