On Sun, 1 Feb 1998 15:22:13 -0800, you wrote:
> So now, I can't get the
>drums on. They're just too tight
If you have not had your drums turned, a lip around the edge of the
wear surface can sometimes make installation difficult. My
recollection is that brake shoes are (or, at least in the "old days",
were) sometimes furnished oversize to fit the greater ID of turned
drums. Turning your drums is one possible solution: it will provide
the longest life from your new shoes, tho some say it promotes brake
fade and drum warpage (it seems to me that the rear brakes on a TR3 do
damn little work due to the weight distribution, however.) If you
don't turn 'em the shoes will soon wear to fit those grooves, anyway.
Back to getting the drums on: Since you were able to install one drum
take heart!! Can you tell from the rub marks on the shoe where the
interference is--in the center of the arc, per chance? With the drum
offered up, can you get a feel for how much material needs to be
removed? A file will work well if you don't have to go far--or have a
lot of time. Wear a mask and keep the dust vac-ed up. While you're
at it, make sure there's a slight chamfer on the ends of the lining
material to prevent chattering.
Most brake shops used to (still do??) have a brake lining miller which
mounts to the wheel hub, is adjusted relative to the ID of the drum,
and is swung about the shoes cutting them to 1.5mm or so less than
said ID. If, by fileing and swearing, you can get both drums mounted
(hammer and wood block are worthy tools for moving the shoes a bit,
but be gentle persuading the drums in this fashion, tho you *will*
have to I'm sure) you might consider letting that 105hp do your
grinding for you, I think you'll find they wear in soon enough. I
guess I wouldn't even bother putting fluid in yet, just power up and
down the driveway with frequent checks on the heat you're
generating--either it'll get free-er or you'll end up waiting an hour
till she cools off and you can get her back in the garage (g). Now
that you have shoes that are perfectly mated to your drums (no, not
welded!!) pull the drums off, clean up the dust, give her a drink and
take a ride.
I noted that you had disassembled and cleaned the adjuster (and
lubricated the threads with Never-Sieze or some-such?) so I'm guessin'
you've checked all those little joints to make sure you can't get
another mm or two--no burrs on the shoe tang or adjuster slot,
adjuster really really really bottomed out, etc--and have done all the
"blueprinting" that you feel comfortable with in those areas.
BTW, I, too, have had problems with stuck drums on cars that have sat
a long time: I think it's a function of rust on the drum rather than
incorrect parts--I'm fighting two of them right now, believe I'll end
up going for the big puller but when I get the engine fired up I'm
sure gonna try the jack-her-up-and-let-her-fly technique first so
Stand Back :-)
Bill TS36420L Delurk to follow,
TS65283L one of these days.
I don't have a spare, and I don't have a jack
And I don't give a shit 'cause I'm never comin' back.